Don’t mind the gap—fix it!
Laminate is an economical and attractive choice for many homeowners who love the look and feel of hardwood floors, but lack the budget for the real thing. For many different reasons, however, laminate flooring can sometimes develop gaps between planks. Fortunately, with a few tools and some free time, you can fix those areas to keep your laminate floors safe, level, and gap-free.
If you have laminate floors, it is likely that gaps will happen. They are ugly, make the flooring look poorly installed, can catch feet and dirt, and make the flooring more susceptible to water damage and chipping. Luckily, there are steps you can take to prevent and repair gaps. Here are some of the main reasons why laminate floors create gaps.
Temperature swings: Changes in temperature can cause flooring to swell and shrink, and this can cause gaps between boards. Minor temperature swings will probably cause temporary gaps, but frequent or severe temperature changes can make them bigger and permanent. Aim for an indoor temperature range of 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (16 to 27 degrees Celsius), and try to keep it as even as possible.
Humidity fluctuations: Laminate wood flooring may not be solid wood, but it is made of a composite wood core covered in a thin sheet of solid wood—and wood of any kind is sensitive to humidity. As with temperature, uneven humidity levels and high humidity will cause the wood fibers to swell, shrink, and change shape. Try to maintain humidity between 35% and 55%, and keep it steady.
Flooring did not acclimate before installation: You should allow laminate floorboards to rest in the room where they will be installed for 48 to 72 hours before placing them, so that they can adjust to the temperature and humidity in your home. If you install boards too soon, they will continue to acclimate in place, and this can cause gaps.
Flooring did not settle after installation: Once installed, laminate flooring should rest for at least 24 hours before you walk on it and at least 72 hours before you place furniture and heavy objects on top. Since most laminate floors are floating tongue-and-groove panels, they move and shift and need time to secure themselves to their neighboring boards and subfloor.
Poor installation: If an inexperienced person installed the flooring, it is more likely to have gaps. While laminate floors can be good DIY projects and are not the hardest types of flooring to install, there is still a learning curve. Any deviation from proper installation techniques can leave the floor at risk for gapping and shifting.
Uneven subflooring: If the surface below the laminate floor is uneven, the laminate boards likely will not sit evenly, either. This paves the way for gaps and bumps; and boards that are not completely flat can cause the boards next to them to shift, too. In extreme circumstances, boards may buckle, or the joint between them and the boards next to them may break, making a large gap.
Spills and flooding: Water—even small spills—that is not cleaned up immediately and completely will cause boards to warp, split, swell, and change shape.
Address underlying issues: If you try to repair a gap without addressing warped planks or uneven subflooring, the gap will just return. Test for warping by holding a straightedge along the length of the plank to see if it is straight; test for subfloor problems by stepping on the planks and listening for clicks, squeaks, or groans.
Gather materials: Depending on the size of the gap, you may need 2 gap fixers, a straightedge, two 24-inch bar clamps, and a vacuum. Small gaps may only require wood glue.
Clean the area: Thoroughly vacuum, removing dust and debris from the laminate cracks and the flooring surface.
There are three main ways to remove gaps from laminate flooring. Each has its pros and cons, so research your options carefully before you choose the one that is right for your flooring and situation.
Keep in mind, though, that these tips for how to repair laminate flooring will only work with floating floors—floorboards that are connected to each other and set on top of the subfloor, rather than glued or stapled down. Almost every laminate wood floor is installed in a floating style, but if yours is not, these gap removal methods will not work for you, and you will need to contact a flooring contractor for assistance.
This method is best for fixing small gaps at the short ends of laminate flooring boards. Only use this method to close up very small gaps, as trying to fill medium-sized and larger gaps with wood glue, caulk, or similar substances will only result in gaps growing larger and those repair substances peeling or chipping out of the gaps.
Select the tool that best matches the size of your gap. Toothpicks or cotton swabs work well with small gaps, while small syringes can handle slightly larger ones. Scoop out (or suction out, if you are using a syringe) a small amount of glue.
Remember: You can always add more glue later, but if you apply too much initially, you will have to clean it up quickly before it sets and becomes more difficult to remove.
Use a putty knife or other non-serrated, non-cutting tool with a flat edge to scrape up excess glue. Wipe off with a clean damp cloth. Be very careful not to touch the glue with your hands. Some epoxies and fillers can adhere to skin and cause damage.
Using your preferred applicator, fill with wood glue until the gap is completely covered. The gap may not be very large, but you want to ensure a thorough, thick coverage, as wood glue can dry to a tacky texture fairly quickly. Ensure that the entire gap between the two planks is covered in glue, including the interlocking areas with the squared edges. Remove any excess with your putty knife for the cleanest result.
Once you have cleaned up any excess or leftover glue, apply pressure as you push the two planks together for a tighter seal. You can either use your own body weight to apply leverage on the two planks, or you can use a floor gap fixer. This device does exactly what its name suggests by creating applied tension and pulling two adjacent planks together to remove a gap. Then use a mallet to apply a few light whacks to ensure a tight alignment between the planks.
Once the two planks have been properly aligned and the gap is gone, take another pass over the area with a clean damp cloth to remove any excess wood glue that has been squeezed out of the gap. If you are dealing with a larger glob of excess glue, wait for a few minutes until it gets tackier, then scrape it up gently with the edge of your putty knife.
You might want to avoid walking on or near the impacted area for a day or so while the glue fully cures. Be on the lookout for any extra glue that might get pushed out of the gap area; if you see any, scrape it off and clean up any remaining residue as soon as you notice it. Additionally, sometimes you will need a second application of glue to fill the gap fully, so periodically inspect the area for any recurrence of the gap.
This type of repair is best for floors that have gaps between the short ends of laminate floors that are installed as floating floors. While wood glue is the preferred method to close up tiny gaps, it is better to use a gap fixer for medium- and larger-sized gaps. This method allows you to shift laminate boards tighter together, working the gaps out and toward the wall, to completely eliminate gaps in the middle of your floor. It is a permanent fix that helps keep your floor stable, sturdy, and gap-free.
Choose the first plank to move. You will be moving the planks into the gaps and away from the wall so that the biggest gap ends up right next to the wall. So, start with the plank that borders the gap and is closest to the wall. Remove the protective strip from the adhesive side of your gap fixer (if it has one). Then adhere the tacky surface to the laminate plank you are moving. If you are using a gap fixer with suction cups, secure the cups to the plank.
When the gap fixer is firmly attached to the plank, use your rubber mallet to tap the block away from the wall side and toward the plank next to it, closing the gap. You may need to tap the block firmly several times to get the plank to move. Do not be afraid to use some muscle, but do not strike the block too forcefully. You do not want to dislodge the gap fixer or slam the flooring planks together and create damage. As you close the gap, you will notice that you are opening up a new gap or increasing an existing gap on the other side of the flooring plank. This is exactly what you want to happen, as you are essentially moving the gap from the center of the flooring to the edge, where it is less visible.
Once the plank is firmly next to its neighboring plank, remove the gap fixer. You can do this most safely by rocking the gap fixer gently from side to side and pulling up. Again, move firmly but not too forcefully; you can dislodge the entire plank if you pull too hard.
Now, you will repeat the process with neighboring planks to close up any additional gaps, creating new or larger gaps between adjacent planks as you work your way toward the wall. During this process, keep vacuuming up any dust or debris you dislodge to keep the area clean. You may also need to wipe off dust or debris from the sticky side of your gap fixer or add a new layer of double-sided tape to keep it sticky.
When you reach the plank that borders the wall, you may not have enough room to swing your mallet to shift the plank. If this happens, use a small pry bar as a lever. Position it at the end of the gap fixer so that you can tap the protruding end to move the final plank.
You should be left with a small gap between the laminate plank that borders the wall. This is a good thing, since it will allow the floor to expand with temperature and humidity fluctuations. However, if it is a very large gap, consider filling it with a small line of wood glue, using a small shim that matches your flooring to take up some of the too-large space, or hiding the gap under a piece of baseboard or floor trim.
This type of repair is best for floating laminate flooring planks that have gaps along the long parallel sides of the boards. You can also use gap fixers for parallel gaps that open up on the long sides of boards. You will need two of them—one for each of the boards on either side of the gap.
Peel the protective strip off the sticky side of the gap fixers (if applicable), then affix to the flooring planks on either side of the gap. If your gap fixers have suction cups, stick them directly to the planks.
Open your bar clamps and place them face down on top of the gap fixers so that the grips rest on the outside edges of the long sides of the gap fixers, with the gap running at a 90-degree angle intersecting the clamps. You will want one clamp on the left-hand side of the gap fixers and one on the right-hand side, as if the gap fixers are ladder rungs and the clamps are the ladder sides. The object is to use the bar clamps to squeeze the gap fixers together to shrink the gap in between.
Gradually apply pressure to the screws or triggers on the clamps to tighten them. Do this slowly so that you feel only moderate pressure. Then, let them sit for an hour to give the boards time to shift slowly; this avoids breakage and cracking. After an hour, tighten the clamps again, only moderately, and let the floor rest for another hour. Continue this process until the gap is closed.
Once the gap is closed, remove the clamps and the gap fixers. You may need to rock the gap fixers gently back and forth to remove them. Do not pull up or tug on them roughly, or you could open up the gap or dislodge the board.
If there was only one gap, you are done. If, however, there are more gaps in your floor or closing up the main gap caused other areas to open up, you may need to repeat the process. Work toward the nearest wall so that the last remaining gap is next to the wall. To stabilize the planks in the center of the flooring and to ensure that new gaps open up toward the wall, have someone stand on or place a heavy object on the plank toward the center of the floor. This will encourage the gaps to move toward the wall.
Once you have successfully moved the gap to the outside edge of the flooring next to the wall, you may leave it exposed (if it is small enough) to allow the flooring to expand and contract with temperature and humidity fluctuations. If the gap is large, cover it with a baseboard or use wood glue, caulking, or a shim to make it smaller.
Replacement and repair are costly, so it is always better to prevent damage—including gaps—to laminate flooring. Here are the top tips for preventing gaps in laminate floors.
Let new boards acclimate: Let new laminate flooring boards sit in the room where you plan to install them for two to three days before placing them permanently.
Let new installations settle: Do not walk on new boards for at least 24 hours, and wait at least 72 hours before moving furniture back into the room.
Keep floors dry: Keep your home’s humidity below 55%, only use damp mops (not wet), and clean up any spills immediately using a soft cloth or paper towel.
Protect your floor’s surface: Avoid abrasive cleaning tools, harsh cleansers, wearing shoes on the floor, dirt and dust, long pet nails, and furniture feet directly on the floors.
Install a vapor barrier: Water vapor and moisture coming up through the subflooring can dampen the underside of your laminate.
Let a pro do it: If you are new to laminate floor installation, call a professional so that you are sure the job will be done right and will be backed by a warranty if there are future problems.
Like with most repairs, the cost to repair laminate floors is less than the cost of tearing out the old flooring and installing new. So, if your laminate floor has small to moderate gaps and the floor is in good shape otherwise, it can be worth your time to repair it rather than replace it. Even if it only lasts a little while longer, you will recoup the repair costs quickly.
Depending on factors such as the type of laminate, the type of repair, the number of repairs, whether you need to replace planks, whether you already have the tools you need, and whether you DIY it or hire a pro, you can spend anywhere from $20 to $500 for laminate floor repairs. Professional labor generally costs between $0.60 and $4 per square foot, or $25 to $50 per hour, so that may well be the most expensive part of the job.
For small gaps in laminate flooring that are not accompanied by more serious damage (i.e., chips, loose or warped planks, or buckling), most homeowners can safely tackle the repair themselves using the methods outlined above. If you are dealing with more significant issues, you will probably want to hire a local laminate repair professional.
Laminate flooring repair is a unique skill, since most are floating floors made of boards that interlock with adjacent boards, rather than connecting directly to the subfloor. For tips on how to repair hardwood floors that have gapped or the cost to refinish hardwood floors, you should contact a hardwood flooring contractor.
Yes, you can caulk gaps in laminate flooring, but this is only a stop-gap measure and will not fix them permanently. As the flooring continues to move and shift, the caulk will likely come loose and the gap will continue to be a problem. The only way to fix gaps in laminate flooring is to remove the boards and replace them with boards that fit tightly together. To fill gaps temporarily, use a silicone caulking that matches the color of the floor, applying only enough to fill the gap; wipe away any excess.
Keeping laminate floors from separating comes down to acclimation. Ensure the planks adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity levels properly. After settling for a couple of days, everything should be fine. Use spacers along the wall to allow for expansion and carefully engage the locking mechanisms on each plank. Finally, avoid hammering too heavily when tapping the planks into place.
Laminate flooring takes about 24 to 48 hours to settle. Before this, planks are not completely acclimated to your home, and walking on them could cause shifting and permanent damage to the flooring. You should allow floorboards to acclimate for 48 to 72 hours before installing so that they can adjust to your home’s humidity and temperature levels, but they will continue to acclimate and settle after installation. For this reason, avoid placing any furniture in the room for 72 hours after installation.
Your floors will continue to settle for a few months after installation, becoming less bouncy as they rest.
