Don’t mind the gap—fix it!
Laminate is an economical and attractive choice for many homeowners who love the look and feel of hardwood floors, but lack the budget for the real thing. For many different reasons, however, laminate flooring can sometimes develop gaps between planks. Fortunately, with a few tools and some free time, you can fix those areas to keep your laminate floors safe, level, and gap-free.
If you have laminate floors, it is likely that gaps will happen. They are ugly, make the flooring look poorly installed, can catch feet and dirt, and make the flooring more susceptible to water damage and chipping. Luckily, there are steps you can take to prevent and repair gaps. Here are some of the main reasons why laminate floors create gaps.
Temperature swings: Changes in temperature can cause flooring to swell and shrink, and this can cause gaps between boards. Minor temperature swings will probably cause temporary gaps, but frequent or severe temperature changes can make them bigger and permanent. Aim for an indoor temperature range of 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (16 to 27 degrees Celsius), and try to keep it as even as possible.
Humidity fluctuations: Laminate wood flooring may not be solid wood, but it is made of a composite wood core covered in a thin sheet of solid wood—and wood of any kind is sensitive to humidity. As with temperature, uneven humidity levels and high humidity will cause the wood fibers to swell, shrink, and change shape. Try to maintain humidity between 35% and 55%, and keep it steady.
Flooring did not acclimate before installation: You should allow laminate floorboards to rest in the room where they will be installed for 48 to 72 hours before placing them, so that they can adjust to the temperature and humidity in your home. If you install boards too soon, they will continue to acclimate in place, and this can cause gaps.
Flooring did not settle after installation: Once installed, laminate flooring should rest for at least 24 hours before you walk on it and at least 72 hours before you place furniture and heavy objects on top. Since most laminate floors are floating tongue-and-groove panels, they move and shift and need time to secure themselves to their neighboring boards and subfloor.
Poor installation: If an inexperienced person installed the flooring, it is more likely to have gaps. While laminate floors can be good DIY projects and are not the hardest types of flooring to install, there is still a learning curve. Any deviation from proper installation techniques can leave the floor at risk for gapping and shifting.
Uneven subflooring: If the surface below the laminate floor is uneven, the laminate boards likely will not sit evenly, either. This paves the way for gaps and bumps; and boards that are not completely flat can cause the boards next to them to shift, too. In extreme circumstances, boards may buckle, or the joint between them and the boards next to them may break, making a large gap.
Spills and flooding: Water and other liquids are the natural enemy of laminate floors. Water—even small spills—that is not cleaned up immediately and completely will cause boards to warp, split, swell, and change shape. This can create cracks as the moisture dries and the boards shrink, since they will not go back to their original shape.
If you know what is causing your floor to gap, you may be able to stop it from getting worse. Temperature and humidity are two of the easiest problems to solve, as you can adjust your home’s ambient temperature and moisture levels to fall within the desired level for your flooring. (Contact the manufacturer to know exactly what this is.) Other factors, such as flooding or not acclimating long enough, are not usually problems that you can fix after the fact.
Before you resign yourself to repairing or replacing laminate flooring, assess the cracks and spaces—where they are, how big they are, when they appear, and if they close up. Make a note of whether they open or close based on weather, temperature, or humidity levels in your home. If they are small cracks that close up when conditions improve, there is no need to worry; your floor is just performing as it is meant to, floating and shifting slightly to prevent permanent damage.
If, however, the cracks are big and do not change, the gapping is likely permanent. The only thing you can do if this happens is repair it. Gaps will only continue to get larger. As one gap opens up and the flooring shifts, it will create movement in the planks around it, causing more gaps and making the floor feel unstable.
If you need guidance, get a professional opinion from a local floor repair contractor who specializes in laminate wood flooring. Have them look at your flooring; explain what you have observed, including any details about the cause or when you see the gapping; and have them assess the problem and give you their recommendations.
Like with most repairs, the cost to repair laminate floors is less than the cost of tearing out the old flooring and installing new. So, if your laminate floor has small to moderate gaps and the floor is in good shape otherwise, it can be worth your time to repair it rather than replace it. Even if it only lasts a little while longer, you will recoup the repair costs quickly.
Depending on factors such as the type of laminate, the type of repair, the number of repairs, whether you need to replace planks, whether you already have the tools you need, and whether you DIY it or hire a pro, you can spend anywhere from $20 to $500 for laminate floor repairs. Professional labor generally costs between $0.60 and $4 per square foot, or $25 to $50 per hour, so that may well be the most expensive part of the job.
Regardless of why or how your floors are gapping and the method you choose to repair them, you should start by carefully surveying your flooring. You are aware of at least one gapping area, but there may be more that you have not noticed yet. By going over every square foot, you can save yourself the frustration of finding new problems after fixing the obvious ones. You may need to move furniture or appliances to get a full view of what is going on with your flooring.
Remember, all laminate flooring needs a little room to expand and contract as it adjusts to weather conditions; however, gaps that collect dirt or do not shrink and grow can be filled to prevent future problems.
Most of the time, gapped boards lead to adjacent boards gapping, so gapped areas will be close to each other. It is important, however, to mark all of the open areas so that you do not forget one. This is especially pertinent if you are shifting and sliding laminate planks to eliminate gaps; if you miss one, you will have to start the process all over again. Use a book, sticky note, or other easily movable object to mark every gap you see.
Now, revisit the damaged areas, and inspect each one carefully. You are looking for the size of the gap (small, medium, or large), the location of the gap (along the short end or the long end), and the condition of the laminate planks themselves.
If the planks are warped or sitting on an uneven subfloor, you will not be able to slide them back together. Instead, you will need to replace the planks or repair the subflooring. If you try to repair a gap without addressing warped planks or uneven subflooring, the gap will just return. Test for warping by holding a straightedge along the length of the plank to see if it is straight; test for subfloor problems by stepping on the planks and listening for clicks, squeaks, or groans.
Different gaps call for different repair measures. If gaps are few, small, and at the end of planks, you may be able to fill them with a little wood glue. But if gaps are large, there are a lot of them, or they are along the long side of boards, you will probably want to shift the boards back into place for a tighter fit across your entire floor. The method you choose will determine the tools you need, the steps you will take, and how long the process will take, so it is important to figure that out before you start any repairs.
Next, once you know how you are going to make the repairs, it is time to collect all of the items you need. Having everything on hand before you begin will keep you organized and make the job go faster. This can also help you get a better final repair, since you will not need to worry about glue drying, boards shifting, or items getting missed if you are distracted by searching for materials.
If you are simply filling tiny gaps with wood glue, you will need glue that matches your flooring, toothpicks, and cotton swabs (for tiny gaps) or a syringe (for larger gaps), and knee pads or eye protection if you want them.
For repairs to bigger gaps along the short ends of boards, purchase a gap fixer or make one yourself by affixing heavy-duty double-sided tape to one side of a wood block (choose a two-by-four or similar block that is six to 12 inches long). You will use this tool to grip the laminate plank and allow you to slide it into place. You will also need a rubber mallet, vacuum, and protective eye equipment like safety goggles.
To repair a long side gap, purchase two gap fixers or make them by attaching heavy-duty double-sided tape to one side of two wood blocks (two-by-fours or similar-sized blocks that are six to 12 inches long). You will need a straightedge, two 24-inch bar clamps, a vacuum, and protective eye equipment.
You need your flooring to be as clean as possible before you begin repairs. Since gaps usually collect dirt and debris, be sure all gaps are clear of foreign materials before and during the repairs, or you can end up leaving room for more gapping problems in the future.
Use a vacuum, hand vacuum, or shop vac to thoroughly clean the area where you are working, removing dust and debris from the laminate cracks and the flooring surface. If the boards you are fixing do not have completely clean surfaces, use a damp cloth or mop to clean them, and let them dry completely before moving on to the next step. This is especially important if you are using gap fixers to move planks, as they must completely adhere to the floorboards in order to work correctly.
Keep your vacuum and a damp cloth handy during the repairs, too, so that you can clean up any newly exposed debris as you work to maintain a clean workspace and a better repair.
There are three main ways to remove gaps from laminate flooring. Each has its pros and cons, so research your options carefully before you choose the one that is right for your flooring and situation.
Keep in mind, though, that these tips for how to repair laminate flooring will only work with floating floors—floorboards that are connected to each other and set on top of the subfloor, rather than glued or stapled down. Almost every laminate wood floor is installed in a floating style, but if yours is not, these gap removal methods will not work for you, and you will need to contact a flooring contractor for assistance.
This method is best for fixing small gaps at the short ends of laminate flooring boards. Only use this method to close up very small gaps, as trying to fill medium-sized and larger gaps with wood glue, caulk, or similar substances will only result in gaps growing larger and those repair substances peeling or chipping out of the gaps.
Select the tool that best matches the size of your gap. Toothpicks or cotton swabs work well with small gaps, while small syringes can handle slightly larger ones. Scoop out (or suction out, if you are using a syringe) a small amount of glue.
Remember: You can always add more glue later, but if you apply too much initially, you will have to clean it up quickly before it sets and becomes more difficult to remove.
Use a putty knife or other non-serrated, non-cutting tool with a flat edge to scrape up excess glue. Wipe off with a clean damp cloth. Be very careful not to touch the glue with your hands. Some epoxies and fillers can adhere to skin and cause damage.
Using your preferred applicator, fill with wood glue until the gap is completely covered. The gap may not be very large, but you want to ensure a thorough, thick coverage, as wood glue can dry to a tacky texture fairly quickly. Ensure that the entire gap between the two planks is covered in glue, including the interlocking areas with the squared edges. Remove any excess with your putty knife for the cleanest result.
Once you have cleaned up any excess or leftover glue, apply pressure as you push the two planks together for a tighter seal. You can either use your own body weight to apply leverage on the two planks, or you can use a floor gap fixer. This device does exactly what its name suggests by creating applied tension and pulling two adjacent planks together to remove a gap. Then use a mallet to apply a few light whacks to ensure a tight alignment between the planks.
Once the two planks have been properly aligned and the gap is gone, take another pass over the area with a clean damp cloth to remove any excess wood glue that has been squeezed out of the gap. If you are dealing with a larger glob of excess glue, wait for a few minutes until it gets tackier, then scrape it up gently with the edge of your putty knife.
You might want to avoid walking on or near the impacted area for a day or so while the glue fully cures. Be on the lookout for any extra glue that might get pushed out of the gap area; if you see any, scrape it off and clean up any remaining residue as soon as you notice it. Additionally, sometimes you will need a second application of glue to fill the gap fully, so periodically inspect the area for any recurrence of the gap.
This type of repair is best for floors that have gaps between the short ends of laminate floors that are installed as floating floors. While wood glue is the preferred method to close up tiny gaps, it is better to use a gap fixer for medium- and larger-sized gaps. This method allows you to shift laminate boards tighter together, working the gaps out and toward the wall, to completely eliminate gaps in the middle of your floor. It is a permanent fix that helps keep your floor stable, sturdy, and gap-free.
Choose the first plank to move. You will be moving the planks into the gaps and away from the wall so that the biggest gap ends up right next to the wall. So, start with the plank that borders the gap and is closest to the wall. Remove the protective strip from the adhesive side of your gap fixer (if it has one). Then adhere the tacky surface to the laminate plank you are moving. If you are using a gap fixer with suction cups, secure the cups to the plank.
When the gap fixer is firmly attached to the plank, use your rubber mallet to tap the block away from the wall side and toward the plank next to it, closing the gap. You may need to tap the block firmly several times to get the plank to move. Do not be afraid to use some muscle, but do not strike the block too forcefully. You do not want to dislodge the gap fixer or slam the flooring planks together and create damage. As you close the gap, you will notice that you are opening up a new gap or increasing an existing gap on the other side of the flooring plank. This is exactly what you want to happen, as you are essentially moving the gap from the center of the flooring to the edge, where it is less visible.
Once the plank is firmly next to its neighboring plank, remove the gap fixer. You can do this most safely by rocking the gap fixer gently from side to side and pulling up. Again, move firmly but not too forcefully; you can dislodge the entire plank if you pull too hard.
Now, you will repeat the process with neighboring planks to close up any additional gaps, creating new or larger gaps between adjacent planks as you work your way toward the wall. During this process, keep vacuuming up any dust or debris you dislodge to keep the area clean. You may also need to wipe off dust or debris from the sticky side of your gap fixer or add a new layer of double-sided tape to keep it sticky.
When you reach the plank that borders the wall, you may not have enough room to swing your mallet to shift the plank. If this happens, use a small pry bar as a lever. Position it at the end of the gap fixer so that you can tap the protruding end to move the final plank.
You should be left with a small gap between the laminate plank that borders the wall. This is a good thing, since it will allow the floor to expand with temperature and humidity fluctuations. However, if it is a very large gap, consider filling it with a small line of wood glue, using a small shim that matches your flooring to take up some of the too-large space, or hiding the gap under a piece of baseboard or floor trim.
This type of repair is best for floating laminate flooring planks that have gaps along the long parallel sides of the boards. You can also use gap fixers for parallel gaps that open up on the long sides of boards. You will need two of them—one for each of the boards on either side of the gap.
Peel the protective strip off the sticky side of the gap fixers (if applicable), then affix to the flooring planks on either side of the gap. If your gap fixers have suction cups, stick them directly to the planks.
Open your bar clamps and place them face down on top of the gap fixers so that the grips rest on the outside edges of the long sides of the gap fixers, with the gap running at a 90-degree angle intersecting the clamps. You will want one clamp on the left-hand side of the gap fixers and one on the right-hand side, as if the gap fixers are ladder rungs and the clamps are the ladder sides. The object is to use the bar clamps to squeeze the gap fixers together to shrink the gap in between.
Gradually apply pressure to the screws or triggers on the clamps to tighten them. Do this slowly so that you feel only moderate pressure. Then, let them sit for an hour to give the boards time to shift slowly; this avoids breakage and cracking. After an hour, tighten the clamps again, only moderately, and let the floor rest for another hour. Continue this process until the gap is closed.
Once the gap is closed, remove the clamps and the gap fixers. You may need to rock the gap fixers gently back and forth to remove them. Do not pull up or tug on them roughly, or you could open up the gap or dislodge the board.
If there was only one gap, you are done. If, however, there are more gaps in your floor or closing up the main gap caused other areas to open up, you may need to repeat the process. Work toward the nearest wall so that the last remaining gap is next to the wall. To stabilize the planks in the center of the flooring and to ensure that new gaps open up toward the wall, have someone stand on or place a heavy object on the plank toward the center of the floor. This will encourage the gaps to move toward the wall.
Once you have successfully moved the gap to the outside edge of the flooring next to the wall, you may leave it exposed (if it is small enough) to allow the flooring to expand and contract with temperature and humidity fluctuations. If the gap is large, cover it with a baseboard or use wood glue, caulking, or a shim to make it smaller.
Replacement and repair are costly, so it is always better to prevent damage—including gaps—to laminate flooring. Here are the top tips for preventing gaps in laminate floors.
Let new boards acclimate: If you bring new laminate flooring into your home and install it that same day, the boards will not have time to acclimate to your home’s temperature, humidity, and other environmental factors. In the days after installation, they are more likely to shrink, swell, shift, and gap. Instead, let new laminate flooring boards sit in the room where you plan to install them for two to three days before placing them permanently.
Let new installations settle: Just like they need to acclimate prior to installation, new laminate boards also need to settle following installation. That means not walking on them for at least 24 hours, and waiting to move furniture back into the room for at least 72 hours. During this time, the floors will continue to shift as they adjust to the conditions of the room and their new positioning, so give them the freedom they need to move into their permanent place.
Keep floors dry: High humidity and spills can cause laminate floor boards to swell and shrink, making gaps inevitable. To prevent this, keep your home’s humidity below 55%, only use damp mops (not wet), and clean up any spills immediately using a soft cloth or paper towel. If your flooring is in an area that is prone to spills, use floor mats and seal the planks along the edges to protect the joints from water intrusion.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions: Your flooring’s manufacturer should have issued directions for installation, care, maintenance, and regular cleaning. It is important that you follow these instructions exactly. This will help your floor last longer and will preserve any warranties that came with it.
Protect your floor’s surface: The top of laminate flooring is sealed with a light layer of water-resistant varnish that gives you time to clean up spills before they soak in. Abrasive cleaning tools, harsh cleansers, wearing shoes on the floor, dirt and dust, long pet nails, and not using pads under furniture feet can scratch the floors, breaking that protective barrier and letting water seep in quickly when spills happen. Avoid all of these things.
Install a vapor barrier: Water vapor and moisture coming up through the subflooring can dampen the underside of your laminate. To prevent this, install a vapor barrier or moisture barrier underneath your laminate flooring. This is especially important if you are installing laminate over a concrete slab or on a subfloor that is at or below ground level, such as in a basement.
Let a pro do it: Yes, industrious and skilled DIYers can install laminate flooring. But those floors will not be professionally installed, and that can lead to errors and substandard installation, which can result in gapping and other problems. If you are new to laminate floor installation, call a professional so that you are sure the job will be done right and will be backed by a warranty if there are future problems.
For small gaps in laminate flooring that are not accompanied by more serious damage (i.e., chips, loose or warped planks, or buckling), most homeowners can safely tackle the repair themselves using the methods outlined above. If you are dealing with more significant issues, you will probably want to hire a local laminate repair professional.
Laminate flooring repair is a unique skill, since most are floating floors made of boards that interlock with adjacent boards, rather than connecting directly to the subfloor. For tips on how to repair hardwood floors that have gapped or the cost to refinish hardwood floors, you should contact a hardwood flooring contractor.
Yes, you can caulk gaps in laminate flooring, but this is only a stop-gap measure and will not fix them permanently. As the flooring continues to move and shift, the caulk will likely come loose and the gap will continue to be a problem. The only way to fix gaps in laminate flooring is to remove the boards and replace them with boards that fit tightly together. To fill gaps temporarily, use a silicone caulking that matches the color of the floor, applying only enough to fill the gap; wipe away any excess.
Common problems with laminate flooring include chipping, water damage, fading, repetitive wood patterns, and gapping. Chipping, water damage, fading, and gapping are all preventable if you invest in a higher-quality floor, take steps to limit moisture exposure, clean up water right away, keep your home’s humidity levels even, avoid wearing shoes inside, use a soft-wheeled vacuum, and keep direct sunlight off the floor. Since laminate wood flooring usually cannot be refinished, or can only be refinished once or twice, preventing damage is the best way to extend its lifespan.
Laminate flooring takes about 24 to 48 hours to settle. Before this, planks are not completely acclimated to your home, and walking on them could cause shifting and permanent damage to the flooring. You should allow floorboards to acclimate for 48 to 72 hours before installing so that they can adjust to your home’s humidity and temperature levels, but they will continue to acclimate and settle after installation. For this reason, avoid placing any furniture in the room for 72 hours after installation.
Your floors will continue to settle for a few months after installation, becoming less bouncy as they rest.
