Dive into the inner workings of your well pump
Whether your taps are spitting or you’ve suddenly lost water to your home, there are some clear signs you can start looking out for so you know when it’s time to check your well pump. The pump is one of several key components to your well water system—and one of the trickiest ones to reach on your own.
If you’re curious about how to check the pump yourself, we’ve got you covered with five clear steps in this quick guide. Checking a well pump can be draining (we couldn’t resist), which is why it also may be worth calling in a pro if your troubleshooting doesn’t find the problem.
Depending on the depth of your well, removing your well pump can be a challenge. If you’re experiencing issues with your water pressure, it’s worth checking other components of your well system before checking the pump itself.
Well pumps rely on electricity to power the motor, so anything that interferes with your power can cause your well pump to malfunction.
Start by checking the well power switch (typically located near your pressure tank) and the well switch on your breaker. In some cases, it’s worth flipping the switch off and on again, especially if you’ve recently had a power outage.
The well’s pressure switch regulates water coming up from your well. If you have a faulty pressure switch, it can cause water loss, spitting taps, and other water issues. Once the power is turned off, remove the cover from your pressure switch and inspect it for any signs of damage.
In some cases, you might hear your well pump rapidly turning on and off. This is called cycling, and it can quickly burn out the motor on your pump. The good news is this is rarely a problem with the pump itself—it’s actually an issue with the pressure.
Take a look at your pressure switch and adjust it if it’s too high or low, then check again to see if your pump is still cycling.
Ensure that the power to your well system is turned off, then fully drain the pressure tank. You can do this by opening some faucets and letting them run until your tank is empty.
Take a reading of the well tank pressure—this should be 2 PSI below the cut-in pressure on your pressure switch (you can check this number on the inside of the pressure switch cover). For example, if your pressure switch reads 20/40, the pressure tank PSI should be 18.
If there’s a problem with your tank pressure, you may need to repair or replace your pressure tank.
Lots of well pump problems can be solved without removing the pump itself. With the exception of a broken pump, here are several common pump problems that you can solve without having to actually take out the pump.
If you’ve recently had an electrical outage, you may need to prime your well pump. This will depend on the type of well pump—submersible pumps (generally used for deep wells) don’t need to be primed after a blackout, but jet pumps (for shallow and medium-depth wells) will need a reset.
Here’s a quick overview of how to prime your well pump:
Turn off power to your well pump
Take off the prime plug on your well pump
Open the faucet on your well pump to clear out debris
Attach a hose to your pump and fill up the pump casing and suction line with water
Replace the prime plug
Turn power back on and run your pump
Deep well pumps are usually far enough down that they’re safe from freezing, but jet pumps in shallower wells can freeze. If the temperature has dropped and you’ve suddenly lost water, there’s a chance your pump or pipes could be frozen.
Run some water to reduce pressure and minimize the risk of a burst pipe, and then wait for the pump to thaw.
If the pump still won’t work after it unthaws, you can remove the pump using the steps in the next section and check or replace the insulated casing if you’re having frequent issues with a frozen pump.
If your troubleshooting above hasn’t revealed any issues, it’s time to dive deep into your well to look for well pump problems.
Before you perform any checks or repairs on your well components, it’s important to make sure the power is fully switched off. The easiest way to do this is to flip the well power switch on your breaker box.
Your well is attached to a pipe that runs down a hole with a cover at the top to shield it from the elements. Open up the cover and take note of how the well pump is positioned inside the hole. There’s usually an indicator arrow on the pipe to make it easier to find and record the proper position.
Inside the hole, there’s a device called a pitless adapter that connects the well pump line to your home’s water line. In order to lift out the well pump, you’ll have to unscrew this adapter.
Most adapters sit about five feet down the hole, so you’ll need a long enough wrench to unscrew this. Shine a flashlight down to get a good look, then unscrew until you hear running water. This is the sound of water running out of your home’s water line. Let this finish, then keep unscrewing until the pipe moves freely.
Gently lift the pipe out of the hole until the pump comes out. It’s possible to do this alone, but it can be helpful to have another person guiding the pipe up to avoid bumping the pump as you pull.
If there’s a rope attached to your well pump, bring this up alongside the pipe to keep the well pump secure. If there’s no rope, tie one on once the well pump is removed so you have an easier mechanism for removing or replacing your well pump in the future.
Once it’s out, unscrew the pump from the pipe. From here, you can visually examine your well pump to check for any signs of damage, clogs, or debris.
If you’ve found an issue with your well pump, you can repair or replace the pump and then follow these steps in reverse to put your well pump back in position. If you can’t find anything that’s causing the problem, it may be a good time to call in a local well pump repair service. If they bill by the hour, you might save a bit of money since the pump is already removed.
Anytime you open up your well to do checks or repairs, it’s important to disinfect it afterward. Learn more about the CDC’s safe steps for disinfecting your well so you can follow proper protocol after you check your well pump.
Checking your well system can be easy to do yourself. Testing power connections and the well pressure switch and tank are relatively simple since all of these components are readily accessible.
When it comes to removing the well pump itself, it’s a good idea to call in a pro. Many well pumps are housed in a relatively narrow casing, and dropping or damaging the well pump when you’re removing it can be a costly fix. The difficulty of removing a well pump also increases with the depth of your well.
If your well pump does need to be repaired, you’ll likely need to call a professional to fix it anyway, so it can be a time-saver to have them assess it and then perform any repairs or replacements, sanitize the well, and replace the pump line all at once.
Even in a well-maintained well, well pumps have an expiration date. Most well pumps last 15 to 25 years, although this can be shorter if the pump is moving high volumes of water, fighting leaks, or working to fill a large pressure tank. You can prolong the life of your well pump by checking it if you notice any potential issues like changes in water pressure or unusual sounds.
It’s a good idea to perform an annual maintenance check, but you don’t need to check every component that often. Annual checks should be done to test water quality and sanitize the well, whereas mechanical checks, like checking your well pump, can be done every 2 to 3 years or any time you notice a potential issue.
