How to Tuckpoint Brick to Make Your Mortar Look Like New

Before removing any mortar, you need to determine the uniform depth. This tells you how much mortar can be taken out. Measure the width of your brick joints with a straight-edge ruler. Times the width by two, and that’s how deep you need to go before reaching solid mortar. Mark the uniform depth with some painter’s tape.

Before you can start repairing the damaged mortar, you’ll need to remove the loose pieces first. While an angle grinder works best, you can also use a hammer and chisel to remove the mortar. 

Whether using a chisel or grinder, remove the mortar carefully to avoid chipping the brick. Position the chisel at the edge of the brick and direct it inwards toward the mortar. 

If using a grinder, grind along the edge of the mortar where it meets the brick, being careful not to cut into the brick. A good rule of thumb is to observe the debris coming off the grinder. If the dust you're producing is red, you’re cutting into brick. 

Chisel or grind the mortar to a depth of about 3/4 of an inch deep from the surface of the brick to create a solid base on which to spread the new mortar.

Before you can add the new mortar, you’ll first need to clean out all the debris you just finished grinding or chipping away. Sweep the mortar out of the joints using a damp, stiff-bristle brush. 

Wash out the joints with water to ensure all the dust is removed. Don’t pour water on the wall, as this will create a mess. Instead, dip a brush in the bucket and apply water to the seams. The water will remove any lingering dust while dampening the bricks, prepping them for the new mortar.

Mix the dry mortar with water, making sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. If you’re tinting the mortar to match the color of the existing mortar, add the dye before adding the water. 

While you can use a masonry trowel to mix the mortar, a better option is to use a mixer attachment with a power drill. The mixer and drill combo will allow you to achieve a smoother consistency while saving your arm. 

Once mixed, the mortar should have the consistency of creamy peanut butter. Add more water or mix to get the right consistency. If you’re worried the mortar is too thin, use the trowel test. Put some mortar on the trowel, then hold it at a 45-degree angle. If the mortar is the right consistency, it will stick to the trowel. 

Once the mortar is mixed, work quickly. You’ll have up to an hour to use the mortar, after which it will become too dry to use. You also may need to mix in water periodically during that period to maintain that perfect peanut butter consistency.

Begin by filling the horizontal cracks. Load a drop of mortar onto a 12-inch by 12-inch square piece of plywood or a mortar hawk. Hold the wood or mortar hawk against one of the joints. Use a tuckpointer to push mortar into the joint until it’s flush with the brick then remove any excess mortar and add it back to wood or mortar hawk. 

While you can use a grout or mortar bag to push mortar into the joints, brick masons generally agree that mortar packed in using the above method creates a more durable joint. 

Next, load mortar onto the tuckpointer and pack it into the open vertical joints. As with the horizontal joints, make sure to pack it in before scraping off any excess.

After about 30 minutes, the mortar should begin to set. Press on the mortar with a finger. You should be able to make an impression without your finger going too deep. Be wary not to let the mortar get too firm, or it will be more difficult to tool.

Use a pointing trowel to create a finished edge on the mortar joints that matches the shape of the existing mortar joints.

For concave, rounded joints, place the jointer at the top of vertical joints and pull it downward. For horizontal joints, run the jointer across the mortar, stopping halfway across each brick. Move the tool to the other side of the brick and run the jointer back across the joint to finish the edge. 

If you want flat joints, use a joint rake. Set the rake depth using existing mortar on the wall, then run it over the new joints to flatten them out.

Wait an additional 30 minutes, then use the stiff bristle brush to remove any loose particles of mortar or mortar left on the brick's face. Don’t wait too long. If the mortar is allowed to set on the brick face, you’ll need to use trisodium phosphate, a powerful acid, to get it off.

Mist the mortar with water periodically for the next several days to slow the curing process. If the area you’re repairing is small enough, hang plastic over it to help retain moisture. While this may be a pain, if the mortar is allowed to dry too quickly, it may pull away from the brick and existing mortar.