This centipede is friendly, we promise
Centipede grass is a warm-season turfgrass that grows in the southeast United States.
The low-maintenance grass requires minimal upkeep once established.
Centipede grass prefers full sun and acidic soil.
It’s not suitable for busy lawns, because it doesn’t hold up well to foot traffic.
If you’re looking for a low-maintenance grass that loves to grow in states like Florida, Tennessee, and Virginia, centipede grass is calling your name. What is centipede grass? Also known as “lazy man’s” grass, this turfgrass won't need much help from you once it’s established. But although it's easy to care for, it’s not right for every lawn: Centipede grass doesn't hold up well to heavy foot traffic or drought conditions.
Centipede grass (Eremochola ophiuroides) is a warm-season turfgrass that gets its name from its short, coarse blades and creeping growth pattern.
This type of grass thrives in mild climates that get at least 40 inches of rain per year. Centipede grass won’t survive the harsh winters of the north or the dry desert conditions in the southwest.
| Trait | Description |
|---|---|
| Common name | Centipede grass |
| Botanical name | Eremochola ophiuroides |
| Plant type | Warm-season turfgrass |
| Average mature height | 1-3 in. |
| Sun exposure | Full sun to part shade |
| Soil type | Sandy, silty |
| Soil pH | Acidic |
| Hardiness zones | 7-10 (USDA) |
Centipede grass is a good choice for residents of the Southeast where rainfall is common and winters aren’t brutal. However, this type of grass requires about 40 inches of rain per year, so if the weather is dry, you’ll need to commit to regular watering.
Centipede grass does well in heat and keeps some of its color during the winter. It greens up early in the spring, and it doesn’t require much fertilizer, which is a win for the environment.
Centipede grass will bounce back from occasional foot traffic, but it’s not the right choice for a busy backyard with lots of activity. And it can take up to three years for centipede grass to fill in an even ground covering.
Centipede grass has both strong advantages and significant disadvantages to consider, depending on your climate and needs:
| Pros of Centipede Grass | Cons of Centipede Grass |
|---|---|
| Minimal mowing and fertilizing | Easily damaged by foot traffic |
| Tolerates acidic soil | Poor shade tolerance |
| Heat tolerant | Sensitive to cold |
| Helps control erosion | Shallow roots |
Centipede grass doesn’t go dormant over the winter like other grass varieties, but it’s harmed by multiple freeze and thaw cycles. So if you’re planting new centipede grass, give it a fighting chance and lay the seed in May or after any threat of frost.
Start by killing any grass already in place for a fresh start, and then till the ground and sprinkle seed. You can also apply a nitrogen fertilizer before covering the seed and watering. During the first 28 days after planting, you should water the grass lightly several times per day. Centipede grass likes to be moist, not drenched.
Another option is to lay sod. This option is more expensive, but quicker. You will have thick, evenly distributed grass right away, but it still needs frequent watering for about a month.
A centipede grass lawn performs best when there are no rival weeds or grasses nearby, which can stand out due to centipede grass’s low height. Other important maintenance tips include:
Centipede grass can grow in partial shade but prefers full sun exposure—around 5-6 hours of sunlight a day.
Centipede grass thrives in acidic soil that’s sandy or silty. In fact, it will grow in very acidic soil where other types of grass won’t. On the flip side, centipede grass doesn’t do well in soil with a high pH.
To water the lawn, give it ¾ inch to one inch of water, ideally in the morning. If only some parts of the lawn appear dry, you can hand water those spots. Signs it needs watering include the lawn having a blue-ish tinge to it. Hydrated grass blades will bounce back, so if you walk across it and your footprints remain, it needs watering.
Keep in mind that sandy soil, which centipede grass prefers, drains quickly. If it’s been a couple of weeks since the last heavy rainfall, water the lawn well. Do not water so much that water pools or dampens the grass for long periods of time, which encourages fungal infections.
When mowing, set the height for between one and two inches. Generally, if the centipede grass gets plenty of shade or is struggling with drought, closer to two inches is better, but optimal height can vary and many prefer to keep the grass around one inch.
When fertilizing, use fertilizers that are rich in nitrogen and potassium. If the grass starts to yellow unexpectedly, the soil pH may have risen too high and the lawn may be lacking in iron. Because centipede grass has relatively shallow roots and is cut low, it’s a good idea to add a weed control product to the lawn once or twice a year to prevent encroaching mushrooms, crabgrass growth, and similar problems.
Centipede grass is resistant to many diseases but suffers from “brown patch,” which is not a drought problem but rather a fungal infection that grows when there’s too much water. If water is lingering after watering the lawn, you may want to adjust your irrigation schedule orlook into lawn aeration.
Insects like mole crickets and other species can attack centipede lawns during the summer months. Using a balanced lawn insecticide can help if it looks like the lawn’s getting damaged from these pests.
Not sure how to care for your centipede grass in the summer vs. the winter? Use this seasonal schedule as a guide.
Mowing: Mow lower than maximum summer height, around 1-1.5 inches as the lawn starts to recover from winter. Now is a good time to consider dethatching if thick thatch has built up over the last couple of years. Since centipede grass may not have much of a dormancy period in very warm climates, these “spring” steps can start very early, in February or even January depending on your climate.
Weed control: A pre-emergent herbicide can work well if your yard is beset by weeds and competing grasses, but you’ll want to apply it early. Use it around mid-February if your centipede grass doesn’t really go dormant, or in March if you get cooler winters.
Mowing: Keep the grass around 1.5 inches for a low cut, and up to 2 inches if your lawn gets more shade during the day. Start mowing at two inches as centipede grass enters the warmer months, and gradually lower the height until both you and the lawn are happy with the results. If you run into problems with drought or similar issues, raise the height back up.
Fertilization: Test soil and add lime or sulfur combinations as needed. Sulfur lowers pH to make the soil more acidic, so it can be especially useful. Nitrogen fertilizers can be helpful in early or late summer, but avoid phosphorus unless your soil is especially low.
Mowing: Continue your summer mowing schedule until the weather starts to cool slightly (especially at night), then raise the height to 2 inches (earlier is better if you’re in doubt). Maintain this height until the next spring cycle begins.
Weed control: Early on in fall, preferably in September, you can apply a centipede grass-friendly pre-emergent herbicide to deal with cool-season weeds and grasses that can crop up in the coming months. Another application in the middle of fall helps seal the deal.
Fertilization: If you’re worried about losing grass over winter in vulnerable spots, now is the time to apply a potassium fertilizer if your soil tests indicate an issue. Adjust pH level as needed as well. Avoid nitrogen fertilizers.
Mowing: Mowing depends greatly on how low temperatures fall for winter. If centipede grass goes dormant, mowing may not be necessary at all. Otherwise, mow occasionally as needed based on growth.
Fertilization: Fertilizer isn’t usually applied in winter, especially if your lawn goes dormant.
Not sure if centipede grass is quite right for your lawn? Here’s how it compares to a few other common warm-season grasses:
Bahia grass: Bahia grass is somewhat more resistant to cold and shade than centipede grass. But the big difference between these two types of grass is appearance. Bahia’s thin blades grow longer—up to three inches—and it sprouts high seed stalks when left alone. Bahia grass can look untidy without regular upkeep.
Bermuda grass: Bermuda grass loves the sun like centipede grass, but unlike centipede grass, it has high resistance to foot traffic, making it an excellent pick if you use your lawn for entertaining or have kids and pets playing on the grass. Bermuda grass is also somewhat more tolerant to cold and drought, but it requires more care and fertilizer than centipede grass, because it grows much faster.
Zoysia grass: Zoysia grass isn’t as low-maintenance as centipede grass, but it does grow slowly and has minimal fertilizer needs. Zoysia grass is far more resistant to both shade and foot traffic, making it a good alternative for a busy yard.
Candace Nelson contributed to this piece.
