How Big of a Tree Can You Transplant? Here's How to Do It Safely

Transplanting a tree takes time, not because of the task itself, but because you need to prepare the tree. Choose a calendar year in which you'll have time to perform the pre-moving steps in the late winter or early spring, the moving steps in the fall or following early spring, and the aftercare from then on for up to several years. You'll also want time to perform soil tests and amendments, if necessary, in the new tree location. 

If the tree has limbs close to the ground — those that would easily get in your way while working — now is the time to tie or wrap them up, if possible. Treat the limbs gently and avoid breaking them. You don’t want branches to be damaged as you work, as the tree will need to be as healthy as possible during the move.

In the late winter or early spring before the leaves begin growing, prune the tree roots to allow them to form smaller root ends closer to the tree's trunk. This step is crucial so the tree can feed itself after the move when most of its large roots are gone.

Prune the roots by digging at least 2 feet deep around the tree in a circle-shaped trench. You must cut out a root ball equalling one foot for every inch in diameter of the trunk, cutting the roots as you go. Refill the trench after completing the circle and severing most of the roots.

In the autumn, after the leaves are on the ground, or the following early springtime, excavate a new hole for the tree. The hole should be twice the width of the tree's root ball and a few inches shallower than its height.

Along the same line as the root-pruning trench, dig the tree's root ball out of the ground. Encircle the tree with a trench before digging out from underneath it. When the tree is free of any roots holding it in place, lift the plant out by its root ball. Avoid pulling on the tree itself to remove it from the hole.

If you leave the tree out for any period of time, even if it’s just a few hours, it’s best to wrap the root ball in burlap. Wet the burlap with water and keep it wet until you are ready to complete the transplant. 

If the tree is small enough, move it onto a tarp and drag it to its new location, recruiting helping hands if necessary. If the tree is small enough to lift, you can use a wheelbarrow or, for longer distances, the bed of a truck.

For larger trees with very heavy rootballs, you can move the tree carefully to a wood platform (usually with help or equipment), then use inflatable rollers to slowly push the platform to the tree’s new position.

For very large trees, you will need to hire a crane service or other large equipment. Since it’s easy to damage trees this way, we suggest leaving the heavy machinery to the professionals. 

Carefully leverage the tree’s root ball into the waiting hole. Add filler soil as needed to level the tree out and keep it at the right height. The tree should never be below the level of the ground that it first grew at. If not, it can cause water to pool around the base of the tree, leading to rot and other problems.

Very large trees are in danger of capsizing due to high winds. Give your newly transplanted tree extra protection by placing three to four stakes in the ground a few feet away. Use these stakes to wrap tree wrap or ties around the trunk. Do not use wire, string, or any other material that could cut into the bark. You can remove the stakes after about one year.

Place mulch around the tree's base and water it immediately. Continue watering the tree daily for at least two weeks and approximately once a week for the first year, depending on soil conditions, drainage, and the tree's response to the move.

Avoid fertilizing the tree right away. Give it time to adjust to the new soil and sunlight conditions first. After about a year, when the tree enters its next growing season, add a judicious amount of fertilizer to help it continue to recover.