A user's guide to (safely) restore power to your outlets
If you discover a damaged, burnt, or overheating electrical outlet, it’s time to learn how to change an outlet, even if you hire an electrician to complete the task. Electrical outlets not working properly can make it impossible to use household devices and appliances, so it’s best to replace them quickly.
However, electrical work and handling wiring can be hazardous to your home and personal safety. Strongly consider hiring a local electrician to change your outlets unless you have prior electrical experience. In this guide, learn how to change an outlet safely (and signs you should look for that warrant calling in a professional).
Before doing any electrical work, you must shut the power off to the outlets in question to protect yourself from electrical shock or electrocution. Working on live electrical circuits is extremely dangerous and can cause serious injury or even death. Find the circuit breaker box and shut off the circuit running to the area you're changing, which significantly reduces the risk of electrical shock or electrocution.
Turning off the power also helps to prevent damage to the electrical system and any devices or appliances that are connected to it. If you accidentally short a wire or create a spark while working on a live circuit, it can cause damage to the wiring or devices, and even create a fire hazard. You can avoid all of these scenarios by turning the power off first and hiring an electrician to make the replacement.
After turning off the power to the outlet, you need to double check that it’s off. Use a voltage testing tool to ensure there is no electrical current flowing through the outlet. If the voltage tester detects a current in the outlet, the power isn’t off, and you may have switched off the wrong outlet. Continue testing and troubleshooting until the power is confirmed off.
With a screwdriver, typically a flathead screwdriver, remove the faceplate screws on your outlet. Set these aside in a small cup or another safe place so you don't lose them. Remove the faceplate gently and give it a quick wipe down if it's dirty. Set it aside for now.
Keep in mind that this step requires electrical work that is best handled by a professional electrician. To remove the outlet receptacle, unscrew the top and bottom parts and lift out gently. Inspect for any visible damage and determine if it needs to be replaced.
Taking the outlet receptacle out will allow you to decide whether it needs replacing, too. Cracked, chipped, or slippery outlet receptacles probably warrant replacement, but it’s necessary if upgrading to a new type of outlet, like a grounded three-prong outlet.
Next up: the wire configuration. You should see three wires attached to the receptacle: black, white, and green (or sometimes bare copper if it's an older house wiring system).
Black wires carry the voltage, white wires are neutral, and green or copper wires are the grounding element. Take a picture to remember what the finished wiring should look like. It might also help to take a video as you undo the wiring to keep track of your steps.
Most outlets are 15 amps, although some might be 20 amps. Check the side of the receptacle to determine the amperage. To find out the amps of an outlet, you can look for the amperage rating stamped on the outlet or on the circuit breaker that controls the outlet. Most household outlets in the U.S. are rated for 15 amps or 20 amps.
Take a moment to pause here. If the amps are higher than the ability of the wires installed in your receptacle (also known as the wire size or wire gauge) this could be a serious safety issue.
At this point, you should hire a local electrician to complete the rest of the job.
If you have a 15-amp outlet, you’ll need a 14-gauge wire. A 20-amp circuit must be served by a 12-gauge or 10-gauge wire for a successful connection.
Still connected at the side, you should be able to unhook the receptacle by either unscrewing the two screws holding the wires to the receptacle or unwiring the wires. In some cases, the receptacle may have both—in which case, you'll need to loosen the screws to free the hooked wires.
At this point in the process, your wiring should have a little slack or some excess cable. If the ends are frayed, burnt, damaged, or look worn, very carefully snip them with a pair of wire cutters. That way, you can use newer cables in your replacement.
Repeat the steps to remove the receptacle, just in reverse order, to attach your new outlet receptacle. Use your reference photos or videos to rewire the cables, secure the new outlet into the box using a screw, wiring, or a combination of the two, and reinstall the wall plate.
Once you're sure everything is ready to go, turn your power back onto the outlets you worked on. Use a voltage tester to check the replaced outlet. If it doesn’t connect, ensure the correct breakers are on and investigate any issues.
If you observe these warning signs from your electrical outlets, it’s time to change them.
Age: If your outlets are more than 20 years old, they may be outdated and no longer meet current electrical safety standards. It's a good idea to have them inspected by a licensed electrician to determine whether to replace them.
Damage: If your outlets are damaged, cracked, or broken, they should be replaced. Damaged outlets can create a fire hazard and may not work properly.
Overheating: If your outlets feel hot to the touch, emit a burning smell, or cause sparks when plugging in or unplugging devices, it’s a clear indication there's a problem with the outlet or the wiring.
Loose or worn connections: If the prongs of plugs don't fit snugly into the outlet, or if the outlet feels loose when plugging in or unplugging devices, you likely need to replace it as it’s a safety hazard.
Outdated or unsafe design: If your outlets are not grounded or lack the GFCI protection required in wet areas such as bathrooms and kitchens, consider replacing them to ensure your safety.
Electricians typically charge between $9 to $35 per switch or outlet, plus the cost of materials. However, they may provide a price break for replacing a large amount of outlets in one job.
It’s best not to assume you can change an outlet yourself; working with electrical outlets can be dangerous if you aren't careful or lack experience. If the outlet is sparking, smoking, or giving off burning smells, put down your voltage tester and hire a local electrician immediately.
An outlet can start a fire if it has blown a fuse, or is sparking, overheating, or smells burnt. Prevent electrical fires by unplugging the device connected to the outlet and hiring an electrician to determine and fix the outlet’s issue. If the outlet stays hot or isn't working, you should fix it.
By nature, two-prong outlets aren't grounded—but the box they run to might be, which makes them safer. The safest way to test if an outlet is grounded is to purchase a circuit tester, which cost about $20 at home improvement stores.
If you discover your outlet (or outlets) aren't grounded, know that this greatly increases your risk of personal injury and electrical fires. You may want to consider installing new three-prong ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlets. On average, the cost to install GFCI outlets is about $210 per outlet.
If the box the outlet is running to is already grounded, a professional's work is pretty straightforward. A pro might charge up to $35 per outlet than needs to be replaced.
Electricians typically charge $50 to $100 per hour for labor. The cost to install a new electrical outlet in your home ranges from $130 to $300.
The most common type of electrical outlet is a 3-prong outlet, which has two flat blades (one is wider than the other) and a round grounding pin. Older homes typically have 2-prong outlets that aren’t as safe as more modern options and are generally not up to current electrical codes. Other outlets you can find in your home include 20A, 125 volt varieties for larger appliances like refrigerators or washing machines.
There are also GFCI outlets, which protect against electrical shock in wet areas, such as bathrooms and kitchens, and arc fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) outlets, which protect against electrical fires caused by arcing.
