Set up your shrub for success
Is it time to learn how to plant a shrub? Shrubbery makes excellent perennial additions to landscaping, from cheering up a front porch to creating a privacy hedge in the backyard. But if you want your shrub to thrive (and look good doing it), you’ll need to plant it correctly, from finding the right soil to placing it at the correct level. We’re covering the necessary steps on planting a shrub with a few key points that you don’t want to miss.
Planting a shrub isn’t like putting down bulbs in the fall or popping in flowers from your local nursery. Shrubs are a lot larger, more expensive, and they’re designed for long-term growth. Plus, shrub-planting mistakes become costly and labor-intensive if the shrub dies and you need to replace it.
The best way to avoid these shrub mistakes is with proper planning and learning the right planting techniques to give your shrub the best chance at a long, happy life in your landscape. Always pick a shrub species well-suited to your climate, soil type, and amount of sunlight. Shrub tags or pots usually provide information on whether it wants full or partial sun and shade, what kind of soil the plant prefers, and so on. Fortunately, most shrubs are hardy and fare well in various environments.
When you’re ready to pick out a shrub—which you can find anywhere from a mom-and-pop nursery to big-box stores—prices depend on the species and size. Most shrubs will come in plastic pots and only be a few feet high. Prices typically vary between $30 to $60. More ornamental shrubs, such as flowering varieties, tend to be more expensive.
The preparation steps of this project are equally important to the planting process. Planting a shrub doesn’t take long, but we suggest budgeting at least an hour for the process from beginning to end. If you haven’t already, check your chosen location for irrigation lines or other obstacles to avoid any unpleasant surprises.
Give your shrub time to settle in and acclimate by picking the best time to plant. Planting in milder, wetter conditions is best, so early spring and early fall can be good times for this project. Early fall may be the best choice since it gives shrubs plenty of time to establish their roots before the spring growth season.
Planting a large plant with a sizable existing root system yields the best results if the soil is moist. When planning on your planting project, try to pick a specific time after precipitation, like an autumn rainstorm, so the soil will be wet. Don’t be afraid to run your sprinklers before your planting session.
Busy DIY landscapers may already have mulch on hand, but we suggest buying an extra bag or two for your shrub, especially if you’re planting multiple shrubs in a row. You most likely won’t need potting soil or compost for a shrub, but if you want to mix a little in with the soil as you work, it won’t hurt.
Follow these steps for a successful shrubbery planting.
Take out your shrub to the installation spot, along with gloves, a shovel, and an appetite for work. Dig a hole about twice as wide as the pot or canvas root bundle, and slightly deeper than the pot’s height. You should thoroughly clear the hole of rocks and any other roots.
Remember that most shrubs grow best in soils with good drainage, although you don’t want soil too loose for a new shrub to establish itself. If you’re working with clayish soil and unsure how well it drains, use a hose to fill the hole with a few inches of water to test it. Delay your shrub planting project by an hour or two, and come back to check the hole. If the water has drained out, then drainage shouldn’t be a problem. You may want a new plan or location if there’s a lot of water left.
With your shrub onsite, now is a great time to rotate it and shift the shrub around so its best side is facing outward. You can always shape it over time with careful shrub pruning, but it helps to start off with the best positioning.
Cut away the plastic pot or burlap sack the shrub came in, exposing the root ball inside. That root ball is probably very confined and needs some work to prep it for planting. Loosen up the outer roots and gently untangle them a bit so they spread out more naturally. If the root ball is packed with dirt, you may have to hack it with a trowel or other tool to loosen the dirt and expose more roots.
Set the shrub in the prepared hole. The shrub shouldn’t sink into the hole too far: The top of the root ball and the beginning of the shrub stems should poke out from the hole. Try to avoid sinking it below ground level.
When your shrub is at the right height, fill the hole with the leftover dirt. Pack the dirt in to eliminate pockets of air, but don’t tamp it down too much.
The shrub will need a lot of water to help it grow, but don’t want to overwater it right away. We suggest using a dripping sprinkler or adjusting your hose until it’s a small trickle. Set the water to trickle down toward the root ball of the shrub. Let it run for 30 minutes, then adjust the hose to a new position. Repeat this three times in total.
Adding a thick layer of mulch around the shrub helps protect it, especially if you’re planting during the fall. Spread the mulch in a layer about two inches thick around the base of the shrub. You can mix in compost at the base of the shrub for some added nutrients if you prefer.
To maintain the health of your shrub, keep it well-watered throughout its first few months. You don’t want it to dry out, which can quickly kill off the roots trying to establish themselves. If you’re worried about shrubs surviving when the ground freezes, add an extra layer of mulch before winter hits. If your shrub is exposed to freezing winds, you can create a quick windbreak with a few stacks and burlap or a tarp to wrap around them. Of course, new shrubs are often smaller, so a simple winter plant cover could do the trick, too.
After the first season or two of growth, you can cut back on frequent watering and start watering it along with your routine irrigation schedule. For the first few seasons, keep an eye on the shrub and watch for warning signs like dead branches or lack of growth that could indicate a pest infestation.
Planting a shrub in your yard is a relatively simple project, and you can control the position and maintenance schedule of the new landscaping addition. However, if you’re physically unable to lift the shrub or dig a hole, you may need help from a professional planting service near you. We recommend hiring professional planters when you have to install multiple shrubs, especially if they’re large or require more intensive placement steps.
Landscapers typically cost between $50 and $100 per hour, and it will probably take one to two hours for a landscaper to plant a shrub.
Since those prices are high for planting a single shrub, we recommend combining the project with other landscaping services that professionals can do simultaneously so you can bundle services during their visit.
Consider your shrub must establish itself to create a strong root system that expands into the soil and anchors it in place. That process takes time for shrubs, usually around a year or more. That’s another reason why many people prefer to plant them in fall, especially in milder climates, so the shrub can take its time and develop its roots over the colder months before a spring push.
It’s not a good idea to transplant a recently planted shrub. New shrubs need all the help they can get to develop a strong root system, and they may not survive a transplant after recently being planted. Try to avoid changing your mind after the first planting: It’s better to spend some time dragging your shrub around to different spots in your yard and reviewing it than to transplant later.
Prune shrubs when they are dormant in winter, especially if they shed leaves during autumn. It’s safer for the plant to prune during dormancy and it helps you sculpt the shrub shape more easily. But we don’t advise pruning a new shrub at all. Unless it’s a very fast grower, give it at least a year or two of growth before you start pruning and shaping.
