Make your garage more comfortable by insulating it
It’s a good idea to learn how to insulate your garage if you spend a lot of time there. Maybe it’s your home gym, crafting space, or hangout room. No matter how you use the space, keeping it cool in the hot months and warm in the cold months is important.
Garage insulation options include batts and blankets, cotton batts, loose-fill fiberglass, loose-fill cellulose, polystyrene structural insulated panels, and polyisocyanurate structural insulated panel. Fiberglass insulation is one of the most commonly recommended options, as it’s typically the easiest material to work with as a DIYer. Rigid panel insulation, however, may be a stronger insulator if you live in a very hot or very cold climate.
There are a lot of options out there, so if you become overwhelmed, you can reach out to an expert for help. A local insulation installer would be happy to give you some details about the different types of insulation and what works best for the local climate.
To begin your garage insulation, you’ll first need to remove anything that’s hanging on the walls. Look for nails or hooks that are often used to hang tools, lawn equipment, and other objects. You’ll need a hammer or screwdriver to remove these fasteners. Also make sure to remove any drywall and clean up dirt and debris. If you spot any mold, it's safer to stop your work and call in a mold removal specialist near you.
Next, take note of any cracks inside or outside the garage. Pests or water can get inside these gaps, so closing them is an important part of the insulation process. Use your expanding foam spray to fill in the openings by about 50%. The foam will expand within 15 or so minutes to fill the space, and it should be completely cured in eight hours.
Due to their versatility and value, fiberglass batts and rigid panel insulation are most commonly used. To measure your insulation, fit it into the gaps between the wall studs and cut it to size with a utility knife. Another way to measure is by placing a piece of wood on top of your insulation to use as a guide when cutting to the size of the stud.
While this is the main step in your process, it’s actually relatively simple! To install your insulation, tuck it into the wall space and staple it down the side of the stud. Make sure it fits well and is secure in the wall.
Now that you’ve installed your garage insulation into the wall, it’s time to consider the garage door and ceiling to further reduce airflow and block external noise. Insulating your ceiling is similar to insulating your garage walls. (Luckily, the cost of garage ceiling insulation is typically a bit less than wall insulation.) Cut your insulation between the rafters and place it into the proper position with the paper side down.
The garage door has a different procedure, as it doesn’t have wooden frames to help secure it in place. Cut your insulation to the size of each garage door panel and push it on top of the door frame. Secure the insulation with snap-on retainer pin caps, tape, or glue the insulation to the door. Since your door will be weighed down with the insulation, you may need to learn how to replace garage door springs with newer, stronger springs.
If your selection of insulation requires a vapor barrier, this is your next step. Apply a vapor barrier on the warm side of the insulation to help protect the insulation from excess moisture. If you live in a temperate climate, staple the vapor barrier to the wall studs over the insulation on the room side. Make sure the vapor barrier isn’t damaged. Any holes can lead to moisture getting trapped, causing mold and moisture damage inside your garage walls.
Finally, cover your insulation with drywall. This step does not apply to garage doors. Measure your garage walls and ceiling to see how many sheets of drywall you need. Screw your drywall to the studs with screws placed approximately every 8 inches. After screwing your drywall in, tape, mud, and sand the drywall compound. You can paint it afterward for a finished look.
While it’s possible to insulate your garage yourself, especially with fiberglass, it can be a time-consuming project that has its risks (like garage door damage). If you’re not up for a long learning process, we recommend hiring local insulation installers. If you’re familiar with installing insulation and drywall, however, you could save yourself a lot of money with a DIY. How you go about this project depends on your comfort level with the tasks involved.
If your garage is not heated, it’s possible that insulating it can cause mildew. If you do insulate your unheated garage, we recommend skipping the vapor barrier, which will hold in more moisture and potentially lead to mildew. If you have a heated garage, you should consider insulation, and it’s less likely that mildew will occur.
Spray foam insulation is known to stop mold by keeping your home secure with an airtight seal. Spray foam works to keep out moisture and oxygen, but it’s not a surefire cure that will keep all mold away. It’s a great option to use to avoid mold, but you’ll still want to keep an eye on your insulation. Don’t use spray-on insulation if you already have mold, as this will just cover up the issue and still leave you susceptible to harmful side effects.
Yes. It is ok to not insulate your garage. That being said, there are many benefits to insulating your garage, though it can be a large, and sometimes expensive, project. Insulating your garage offers greater energy efficiency, less maintenance over time, noise reduction, and improved comfort in your garage. If you know you’ll be spending a lot of time working in your garage, it’s usually worth the time and money to insulate.
Your garage door insulation will typically last anywhere from 20 to 100 years depending on the type of insulation. Cellulose only lasts 20 to 30 years, while spray foam, mineral wool, and fiberglass can last up to 100 years. Longer-lasting insulation will typically be more pricey than insulation with a shorter life span, so keep this in mind when planning your budget.
