Give your grass some breathing room
Lawn aeration costs $140 on average.
Aerate your lawn every two to three years to keep your yard healthy and green.
You can mechanically, physically, or chemically aerate a lawn.
Tired of a trampled-looking yard? Aerating your lawn might be the key to turning yellowing grass back into lush greenery. So, what is lawn aeration, and how can it help my yard look its best?
At its simplest, aerating a lawn pokes small holes in the soil to let air, nutrients, and water into the root system. Once you aerate a lawn, the grass roots will receive more nutrients and oxygen, helping them grow stronger and faster.
You can aerate a lawn physically, mechanically, or chemically. While the tools required for each method are different, the process is similar.
Lawns can be aerated using a:
Core aerator, which pulls plugs of dirt out of the yard by hand.
Mechanical aerator with a motor to tackle a larger yard and avoid physical strain.
Chemical aerators that create small holes in the soil, but not plugs, and don’t require much labor.
Aerating will improve your lawn by:
Loosening up compacted soil,
Delivering nutrients to the roots
Encouraging drainage,
Creating more air circulation,
Breaking down some thatch,
Strengthening the root system.
If your lawn looks less than lush, it needs some TLC. But is aerating the right fit? Here are some signs your lawn needs aeration.
You can’t remember the last time it was aerated. Most lawns will benefit from aeration every two to three years. If you’ve never aerated your lawn or can’t remember when you last did, it’s time.
Water pooling on the surface. If you notice standing water on top of your soil, it could be a sign that it is too compacted to absorb water.
Browning grass or bare patches. If watering hasn’t helped foster growth in these patches, it’s likely because nutrients can’t reach the soil.
The yard sees a lot of use. If your kids constantly run around the yard or the lawn sees a lot of foot traffic, it’s more likely to be compacted and need aeration.
A thin layer of visible thatch. Aerating your lawn can break up some thin thatch on the top of your lawn. But, if the thatch is more than an inch thick, consider dethatching the lawn before aerating it.
Hiring a professional to aerate your lawn will cost between $75 and $200. On the other hand, you could pay around $215 to aerate the lawn yourself, depending on what aeration equipment you rent.
If you already have the tools on hand, aerating the lawn yourself won’t take more than an afternoon. But, depending on the size of the project, the labor can be grueling, and you won’t save much in the long run.
If you already plan on hiring a lawn professional for another service, such as dethatching or reseeding, you might consider rolling aeration into the scope. Package deals can save you as much as 20% off the total cost.
Ready to let your lawn breathe? Hire an aeration company near you to help complete this project.
The best time to aerate your lawn is in the spring or fall, depending on the type of grass you have. You don’t want your grass to be dormant when you aerate it, and the soil should be damp, not soaking.
Warm-season grasses grow most in the summer, so aim to aerate them in the late spring or early fall. Cool-season grasses thrive in the fall and spring. Aim to aerate them during the early spring or fall.
| Cool-Season Grasses | Warm-Season Grasses |
|---|---|
| Kentucky bluegrass | Zoysia |
| Creeping red fescue | Bermuda grass |
| Perennial ryegrass | Bahia grass |
| Fine fescue | Centipede grass |
| Tall fescue | St. Augustine grass |
Have a mix of grasses? Generally, you can’t go wrong with an early fall aeration.
There are several different ways to aerate a lawn. The right method for you depends on the size of your lawn, the time you have to dedicate to the project, and your budget.
Core and plug aerators can be manual or mechanical. They work by pulling cylindrical plugs of dirt from the ground via hollow tines. Once completed, your lawn has small holes that help the soil receive sun, nutrients, and moisture.
Using a plug or core aerator is the most effective aeration method, but some people don’t like dealing with the dirt plugs that come out of the process. You can leave these plugs to dry, then pick them up and compost them, or just let them recycle back into the ground through a mix of foot traffic and rain.
Manual or mechanical spike aerators use spikes or tines to create small holes in the ground. Unlike core or plug aerators, spike aerators don’t pull up plugs of dirt in the process.
Spike aerators aren’t always as effective as core or plug aerators. But, they aren’t as messy, and you can even improvise a spike aerator with items you already have, like a pitchfork or other tools with tines.
While they might seem like an easy and fun time saver, avoid spike aerators you attach to your shoes. These don’t usually puncture deep enough holes in the soil to make a difference.
A newer aeration method, liquid aerators can be easier to apply and won’t leave you with a messy lawn. You can buy liquid aerators at garden centers or home improvement stores. Typically, the solution is a concentrate; you’ll mix it with water and spray it across the lawn.
While liquid aerating isn’t always as effective as plug aeration, it’s a happy medium between price, labor, and efficacy for many homeowners. Just read the directions and ingredients to ensure the solution is safe for your lawn and any pets or plants that might be outside.
You’ll need to take a few steps to prep your lawn before you can aerate it.
Make sure your lawn is in good shape before you begin aerating. Mow your lawn so the length of the grass is between two and three inches long. Giving the grass a trim will make it easier to puncture the soil with your aeration tools.
A wet or damp soil will have more give, making it easier to puncture holes. Water the lawn the day before you aerate it, or plan to aerate the lawn the day after rain. The lawn should be damp but not soaking wet when you aerate it.
Since aerating is essentially poking holes in the earth, there’s a risk of hitting an irrigation or utility line accidentally. Call 811 to learn where the lines are on your property before getting to work.
To avoid damage from accidentally hitting sprinkler heads or landscape lighting while you work, use stake flags to note hazards so you don’t run them over.
Have you ever noticed dead grass lurking between new growth and the soil? That layer of brown, brittle grass is called thatch.
When you have more than an inch of thatch accumulated on your lawn, you’ll want to dethatch it before aerating it. Too much thatch on your lawn could make the process ineffective. Since thatch also keeps nutrients from the soil, just aerating your lawn might not be enough if there’s a thick thatch on the ground, too.
Dethatching essentially combines that dead layer from between the soil and new grass. You can dethatch your lawn using a manual rake or electric dethatching tool.
If you plan on spike aerating your lawn, rake the yard so it’s debris-free. Plus, if you have pups who use the outdoor facilities for their business, be sure to double-check that they’ve been cleared before you begin aerating.
While any method of lawn aeration will lead to similar results, you’ll execute each differently.
Determine your path of movement. If possible, begin in the corner of the yard.
Hold the tool upright, then push the plug aerator into the ground. You can use the foot bar for more leverage to penetrate the soil.
When you pull the core aerator back up, you’ll notice the small plugs of dirt coming up from the soil. If you don’t see plugs coming up from the ground, you might not be pushing the plug aerator in deep enough.
You can leave the plugs on the lawn to dry and remove them at a later date or let them naturally decompose on the lawn.
Continue pushing the aerator into the ground, repeating the process every four to six inches. Work from one side of the yard to another, creating even rows.
While it might not be as effective as a plug or core aerator, a spike aerator can be easier to use.
Begin at one corner of the yard, going up and down or side to side across the property.
Set the spike aerator upright, pointed in the direction you want to head in.
Put your left hand on the left handle, then grip the pole just below the handlebars with your right hand. Your right hand will guide the spike aerator while your left hand steadies it.
Use your right hand to guide the aerator straight across the lawn.
Once you reach the end of the row, lift the tool out of the soil and set it in the new direction before repeating the process.
A liquid aerator is perhaps the simplest solution, with the least physical work involved.
Mix the liquid aeration solution with water, using the manufacturer’s guidelines.
Put the mixture in a hose-end sprayer or garden pump sprayer, and then spray the solution across your lawn evenly.
Wait 48 hours before watering, seeding, or fertilizing the lawn. The solution needs time to loosen the dirt and break up dense particles.
Once you’re finished aerating your lawn, the job isn’t necessarily over. There are a few things to keep in mind after you put away your tools.
The dirt plugs from the core aerator might be an eyesore for a couple of days, but if you let them dry in the sun, you can easily pick them up without getting dirt all over your clothes.
If you don’t mind them in the yard, you can leave the dirt plugs on the lawn to break down naturally over the next few weeks. Or, you can use a rake to gently break up the dirt plugs and encourage their breakdown faster.
If you’re looking at the cost to fertilize your lawn, now’s the time to do so. Fertilizer will help the grass grow and make sure it looks as healthy as possible. Just remember to water the lawn after applying fertilizer to avoid chemical burns.
Once you’ve finished aeration and any additional treatments, let the lawn rest. Avoid heavy foot traffic from pets, kids, or adults. Aim to avoid being on the lawn for a few weeks for maximum impact. Poking holes in a lawn will help it in the long term, but in the short term, consider the space an open wound. Avoid walking on it to damage sensitive soil or introduce bacteria.
Ready to begin aerating your lawn to get it looking lush and healthy again? Keep these tips in mind before kicking things off.
Soil type determines aeration frequency. It’s important to know what type of soil you have to determine how often you should aerate. Heavier clay soils need to be aerated annually, while sandy, silty soils can be aerated every two years.
Aerate high-activity lawns. If your lawn sees lots of foot traffic, you might consider aerating it annually. That’s because the more foot traffic a lawn sees, the faster the soil becomes tamped down and impacted.
Bundle lawn services if hiring a pro. If your lawn needs dethatching and aeration, ask a lawn care professional if you can get a discount by bundling the treatments together. You’ll likely save some cash.
Time of year. Aim to aerate in the spring or fall, depending on the type of grass.
Don’t aerate a wet lawn. While your lawn should be damp during aeration, it shouldn’t have standing water or be soaking wet. If you experience unexpected heavy rainfall, consider delaying aeration until the yard drains.
For cool-season grasses, aerate in the early spring or fall. For warm season grasses, aerate in the late spring to early summer. You’ll know you need to aerate your lawn when it looks thin or weak.
Yes! Many DIYers aerate their own lawn. You can either rent or purchase an aerator. Aerate your lawn annually for the best results. If you have sandy soil and a healthy lawn, you can stretch the timeline to every two to three years.
The best manual aeration tool is a manual core aerator, though you can also use a manual spike aerator. Plug or core aerators are the most effective overall. If you’re doing it by hand, it will feel a little tedious unless you have a very small yard. Wear strong boots and roll up your sleeves.
Aeration is a great way to strengthen your lawn. This process improves nutrient absorption and drainage, which helps your grass grow stronger, deeper roots. Instead of thin or brown patches, you’ll notice a thicker, greener lawn that’s more resilient to pests and disease.
