Can a Homeowner Install a Radon Mitigation System?

Breathing safe indoor air is worth the effort

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  • Installing a radon mitigation system yourself is not recommended because radon exposure is hazardous and the system requires professional knowledge to work correctly.

  • Expect to pay $800 to $1,500 for professional radon mitigation system installation, with costs reaching $4,600 for unfinished basements and up to $15,000 for crawl spaces.

  • You can prepare for professional installation by clearing your basement workspace and learning how to test for radon levels in your home beforehand.

  • Hiring a local radon testing professional provides reliable help with air quality testing and system installation, keeping your home safe from this radioactive gas.

If you’ve recently discovered high radon levels in your home, you may wonder if building a mitigation system on your own is a good idea. But can a homeowner install a radon mitigation system using DIY methods? With the risks involved and the scope of work required, most of the project should be left to a professional—but there are some parts you may be able to do yourself. 

Learn how far you can go without the help of a pro and when you should defer to the experts instead. 

What Is a Radon Mitigation System?

Passive versus active radon systems and how they work illustrated, with the active system using a fan

Radon is a radioactive gas derived from natural uranium found in soil. It can be dangerous to humans over long periods of exposure. In fact, exposure to this substance is the number one non-smoking cause of lung cancer in the United States. 

A natural byproduct of the decaying uranium in rocks and soil, radon can enter and build up in homes without preventative measures in place. What’s worse, it’s colorless and odorless which makes it difficult to detect without proper radon testing

As for how to get rid of radon, a mitigation system is your best and only option. There are three types of these systems—sub-slab suction, drain-tile suction, and sub-membrane—and they all do the same thing: pull radon out of your home through a series of vents and pipes.

Common Elements of a Radon Mitigation System

6 radon mitigation system parts illustrated, including the radon fan, u-tube manometer, and suction pit

No matter which radon mitigation system you opt for, these are the components you’re most likely to find in each one and what they do. 

  • Radon fan: This feature is installed in a cavity in the roof or an attic and carries radon from the inside to the outside of a home. Because its job is so important, radon fan replacements cost more than replacing other broken parts.

  • U-tube manometer: This part is placed in an easily visible location and will signal to homeowners whether or not the radon fan is working. 

  • Radon mitigation system tag: Located below the U-tube manometer, this tag contains all of a system’s pertinent information, like when and who installed it, plus their phone and license number. 

  • Active notification monitor: This alarm will ring if the radon fan isn’t working properly. 

  • PVC Pipe: This pipe connects the radon fan at the top of a home to the suction pit at the base. 

  • Suction pit: Located in or near the home’s foundation, this part pulls radon from the soil below and carries it up through the PVC pipe to the radon fan, which moves it outside.

Should You DIY a Radon Mitigation System or Hire a Pro?

radon mitigation system in crawl space
Photo: Grandbrothers/ AdobeStock

Radon is a hazardous gas that comes with a number of risks when improperly handled, and there’s no way to avoid contact with it when building a system like this. 

What’s more, the system needs to be installed correctly for it to work at all, which can be difficult to do if you don’t have all the right skills, equipment, and knowledge of local codes and regulations. But who installs radon mitigation systems? You should hire a radon reduction specialist near you. They can provide radon testing to see how high your home’s levels are and install a mitigation system if necessary.

Here’s a look at what the pros will do throughout the process: 

  • Conduct a radon air quality test to see how high the gas levels are in your home. 

  • Create a suction point where radon levels are highest. 

  • Dig a sub-slab pit, which will create a larger surface area and enable the radon fan to remove radon most efficiently.

  • Install the PVC pipe from the bottom to the top of the house. 

  • Construct an exit vent in the roof or attic and install a radon fan.

  • Test the system and make adjustments as necessary. 

Although DIYing a radon mitigation system isn’t recommended, there are some things you can still do—like clearing an area of your basement for the pros to work or learning how to test for radon yourself.

Safety Warning

Exposure to radon over a long period of time can cause serious health problems, including lung cancer. Lowering radon in your home requires professional knowledge and skills only available by hiring a radon mitigation pro.

Frequently Asked Questions

The lifespan of a radon mitigation system depends on the type of system and its maintenance. With proper care, a system can last for many decades. Passive systems tend to last longer as they have fewer components that require replacement. Active systems, which have more moving parts like fans, generally have a shorter lifespan. For instance, water filtration devices and active pressurization systems require more frequent maintenance. While the system as a whole is durable, the radon fan in an active system typically has a lifespan of 5 to 10 years and will need to be replaced. As long as the fan is working, the mitigation system should function correctly.

The cost for a radon mitigation system typically ranges from $800 to $1,500, with an average around $1,000. The final price depends on several factors, including the size of your home, the severity of the radon issue, and the type of system required. Your home's foundation type also significantly impacts the cost. For example, sealing and ventilating an unfinished basement might cost around $4,600, while encapsulating a crawl space without a foundation slab can range from $1,500 to $15,000.

No level of radon is technically safe, but since it is present everywhere, complete avoidance is impossible. The average radon level in homes across the United States is 1.3 picocuries per liter (pCi/L). The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends taking preventative measures if your home's radon levels are between 2 and 4 pCi/L or higher.

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