Consider letting a pro with all the equipment handle this one.
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What you'll need:
TOOLS
Drill
12-inch long masonry bit
Rotary hammer
Hammer
Shop vacuum
Drill-powered auger
4 1/2-inch hole saw
Trowel
SUPPLIES
Safety goggles
Gloves
N-95/KN-95 face mask
Bucket(s)
3-inch PVC pipe
PVC elbow joints (depending on your home's structure)
Pipe thread sealant
Radon fan
Manometer
Patching cement
Radon testing kit
Your home's radon test results came back, and they're not good. Don't panic. A radon mitigation system will whisk away the gas, keeping your family safe. While it's a good idea to go pro with this project, here's how to install a radon mitigation system so you know what to expect.
Prepping to Install a Radon Mitigation System
If your radon test results revealed levels above 4 picocuries per liter, you definitely need some form of mitigation system in your home to reduce radon levels, and protect your household from an increased risk of lung cancer. You may also want to install a radon mitigation system if the gas levels are elevated, above 2 picocuries per liter, to be on the safe side.
Keep in mind that many states require a license to install a radon mitigation system. For your safety and to keep your home up to code, it's usually best to hire a professional to do the job, rather than take it on yourself.
Find the Foundation's Footing and Cut a Hole
Photo: Alex Potemkin / iStock / Getty Images Plus / Getty Images
First, you need to find the foundation's footing, as you don't want to hit it when you cut the hole. Use a 12-inch masonry bit on a power drill and drill a hole in the basement floor, near the wall. If you hit the footing, drill again, a few inches away. Wear goggles and a face mask, because this is a dusty job.
Next, drill a hole in the basement floor. You can use the rotary hammer or drill with the masonry bit, making a circle of holes. Once you've made the circle, whack the cement with a hammer and it should fall away.
Dig a Pit
Use the shop vacuum to suction away cement dust, then use the auger to dig a pit under the basement floor. The type of material beneath the surface determines how much you need to remove.
If there's gravel under your home, you'll have to remove about 5 gallons to make the pit. If there's soil, expect to remove about 15 gallons. Pile the soil or gravel into buckets when removing it.
Place the 3-inch PVC pipe into the hole, then run the pipe up through your home. You may run the pipe all the way up to the attic, or cut a hole in the rim joist to have the pipe exit the house right above the basement.
Use a 4 1/2-inch hole saw to cut an opening large enough for the PVC pipe. Attach pieces of pipe together using the pipe sealant. Use cement and a trowel to secure the pipe in any holes.
Install a Fan and Manometer
Attach the piping to the fan, usually on the outside of the house. Also, connect a manometer to the pipe. This will let you know if the system is still working or if it's time to replace the fan.
Test the System
Conduct an at-home radon test to verify that the system is working and is pulling radon out of the house. If the radon results come back high, you may need a stronger mitigation fan or an additional suction pit.
DIY vs. Hiring a Pro
While it's important to understand how a radon mitigation system works, this is usually a project best left to a professional radon mitigation company. Installing a radon mitigation system requires knowledge of several trades, including plumbing and electricity.
Some states require you to hire a licensed expert if radon reduction is needed, so it's best to err on the side of caution and hire someone who knows what they're doing from the start.
The cost of a radon mitigation system isn't much different if you hire a pro or DIY. Since your health is at stake, and your state may require a professional anyway, you might as well go pro.
Frequently Asked Questions
In an existing home, a radon mitigation system is typically installed in the basement or crawlspace and along the exterior walls of the home. In some cases, a radon mitigation system may be installed in the garage.
In new construction, a radon mitigation system may be installed so that the fan is in the attic and the system vents out through the roof.
The fan that pulls the radon out of the air needs to run continuously, so you may see an increase in your electric bill once you install the mitigation system. Additionally, you may see an increase in your heating or cooling bills, as the fan can cause some loss of hot or cool air.
You'll need to test your home for radon after installing the mitigation system, then again every two years. If radon remains elevated, contact a licensed radon professional, either the contractor who installed the system or a different one, and have them evaluate the system. They may need to make some changes to improve its effectiveness and performance.
Amy is a content writer specializing in home improvement and personal finance topics. She loves helping people tackle DIY projects that beautify their spaces. Her work can also be found on Money Crashers and Coldwell Banker where she combines home improvement and money saving tips.
Amy is a content writer specializing in home improvement and personal finance topics. She loves helping people tackle DIY projects that beautify their spaces. Her work can also be found on Money Crashers and Coldwell Banker where she combines home improvement and money saving tips.
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