How to Install a Sewage Ejector Pump for a Fresher Basement Bathroom
Banish basement backlogs and bad smells
- Hacksaw
- Pipe wrench
- Power drill
- Gloves
- Safety goggles
- Sewage ejector pump with basin and lid
- PVC pipe
- Male-threaded PVC pipe adapter
- PVC glue
- PVC primer
You can’t fight gravity—unless you have a sewage ejector pump. When you have a basement bathroom or laundry room, sewage ejector pumps do the hard work of pumping waste up, up, and away to your main sewage line. Without sewage ejector pump installation, sewage can back up into your taps and drains, causing smelly, expensive overflows and extensive damage to your basement. Learn how to install a sewage ejector pump in your basement, how much you can expect to pay, and when it might make sense to hire a professional instead.
Prepping for Sewage Ejector Pump Installation
If you know how to clear a main sewer line clog yourself, you may have the baseline plumbing skills necessary to perform this installation. Keep in mind, however, that in addition to plumbing skills, you may need to perform some concrete and electrical work, as well, to get the unit positioned and connected properly. Read the manual for your new ejector pump unit to make sure you have what you need for your specific make and model.
You’ll also want to check local building codes; depending on your location, you may need to make some adjustments to ensure you have the proper venting, pipe sizes, and permits to complete the job. As always, before starting, put on your personal protective equipment, including safety goggles, gloves, and a face mask.
Remove the Old Pump
Photo: Ozgur Coskun / Adobe StockIf you’re replacing an existing sewage ejector pump, you’ll want to remove the old unit first. Disconnect the vent and discharge pipes coming up from the sewage basin cover. You may need to cut them with a hacksaw.
Then, remove the basin cover by unscrewing the fasteners and slicing through the silicone to break the seal. Remove the check valve, being careful to dodge any wastewater that falls back down as a result. Lift out the old pump and set it on a pan or in a bucket to contain the inevitable drips and mess.
Place the Basin
For ejector pump replacements, the pump basin will already be in place. If it’s in good condition, you can simply reuse it. However, if you’re performing a new install, you’ll need to drill out a hole—commonly 18 inches in diameter and 30 inches deep—to place a new pump basin in. The inlet pipe usually runs under the concrete slab and into this basin.
Connect the Discharge Pipe to the Pump
Use PVC glue to attach a male-threaded adapter to the ejector pump. Then, you can attach the discharge pipe to the adapter. Tighten with a pipe wrench.
Place the Ejector Pump
With the discharge pipe attached, lower the pump into the basin. Position it far away from the inlet pipe so that the float switch can’t operate properly. When the pump is in place, you can use zip ties to secure the electrical cord to the discharge pipe. That stops the cords from twisting up and falling back into the basin. (You’ll want to hire a pro later to connect the pump to your home’s electrical system, as this can be very dangerous for a DIYer, leading to potential electrical shock.)
Attach the Gasket
You can set the self-adhesive gasket material all around the lip of the pump basin. The cover will rest on this gasket to form a tight seal and keep smelly sewer gases from floating throughout your house and ruining everyone’s appetite.
Install the Check Valve
Place the check valve on top of the discharge pipe. The check valve lets water travel one way: up. You can use PVC primer and PVC glue to secure the check valve to the discharge pipe and tighten the clamps.
It’s not strictly necessary (unless required by basic finished basement codes in your area), but it is a good idea to add a ball valve above the check valve. The ball valve will completely stop the downward flow of waste if you need to repair or replace the ejector pump in the future.
Attach the Lid
Photo: Robin Gentry / iStock / Getty Images Plus / Getty ImagesWith the pump in place and the discharge pipe attached, you can attach the basin lid. Run a bead of silicone caulk around the lip of the basin and use the included fasteners to bolt the lid in place. You can add a touch of anti-seize lubricant to the bolts to prevent them from rusting.
Don’t forget to place the donut gaskets around the discharge and vent pipes, plus the gasket that holds the electrical cords in place. These are critical for putting a damper on sewer gasses.
Run the Vent Pipe
Speaking of sewer gases, the last step is to run the vent pipe from inside the basin to the vent. You might connect the vent pipe to your main plumbing stack or to a dedicated vent to the outdoors, depending on local codes. Give the pipes a final seal using a bead of silicone caulk around the hole in the lid and pat yourself on the back: You’re going to eject so much sewage now.
Maintaining a Sewage Ejector Pump
After you learn how to install a sewage ejector pump, you’ll need to take steps to maintain it over the years. If you braved doing this challenging and long installation process yourself, maintenance will be a piece of cake. But you can always call a local sewer cleaning company to do the work if you’re not keen on the task.
You should visually inspect the system every three months, and a more detailed maintenance process from a professional is recommended once a year.
Before doing maintenance, turn off the circuit breaker for the pump. Shut off the water supply, too, just to be certain it won’t leak while you’re working. Some of the key maintenance steps you should take include:
Do a visual inspection: If you see any cracks in the plastic basin, pipes, or elsewhere—or if there are signs of leaks—the pump needs immediate repair. Look at the connection to the discharge pipe and ensure it’s tight.
Clean it out: Open the tank’s panel and use a flashlight to look inside. If you see any solids, remove them by hand while wearing disposable gloves. Look at the ventilation pipes and clear any debris or clogs you see.
Inspect the motor: Check the oil container for the pump. If the oil is dirty, you can change it. If it’s low, add more oil. If you see greasy areas of solids around the motor, clean these areas. Ensure the vents on the motor are free of debris to allow for smooth airflow.
Look at the seals: The ejector pump motor has several areas with welded seals or O-rings. Inspect these areas for any leaks or cracks and repair them as necessary.
Check the bearings: The pump motor will have a bearing assembly. If the surface is damaged, you may need to replace the bearings. This is a difficult job for a DIYer to handle.
Sewage Ejector Pump Installation Process for a Septic System
A sewage ejector pump installation with a septic system is nearly identical to a traditional sewer main line. If you’re wondering how to know if you have a septic tank, look for lids at ground level outdoors that lead to the septic tank buried on the property. Some lids might be in the middle of septic tank landscaping, like a flower garden, to hide them. Even if you can’t find lids, if you live in a rural area with no city sewer service, you likely have a septic tank.
With a septic system, you will have to dig into the basement floor concrete to bury the basin for the ejector pump, just as you would do with a traditional sewer system. Connect the discharge pipe from the ejector pump to the septic system’s inlet pipe, and it should be ready to use.
Considerations for a New Septic System and a Sewage Ejector Pump
It’s possible to put in a septic system for an in-law suite or similar structure rather than trying to tie it into the main sewer or septic line. You can install a small septic in a garage apartment that sits far away from the main sewer line. It may cost less to install a new septic tank and an ejector pump in the garage apartment compared to the cost to install a sewer line from the apartment to the main sewer or septic line.
Before adding any new fixtures that would need an ejector pump to a septic system, figure out the capacity and type of septic system you have. Some systems are not large enough to handle more fixtures and waste, meaning you’ll have to check if the septic tank is full more often or replace it with a larger tank.
DIY vs. Hiring a Pro
Although the process for installing a sewage ejector pump is fairly straightforward, it does involve some plumbing skills that might be more complex than you’re used to. If you’ve ever asked yourself, “Is my kitchen sink connected to my bathroom sewage pipe?” then feel free to hire a professional for this one.
After all, if you get it wrong, you’ll have an expensive (and stinky) mess on your hands. Plus, for new installations, you’ll need to drill into the concrete of your basement floor to place the pump basin. That can turn a “straightforward” job into a loud, dusty, multi-day project requiring additional tools and skills.
Fortunately, you can hire a local sewer service to take care of the whole project for you, ensuring that your new ejector pump is installed safely, properly, and according to code.
Frequently Asked Questions
An ejector pump will last about 7 to 10 years on average—as long as you keep up with maintenance. Properly maintained, it’s not unheard of to get decades of use out of an ejector pump. On a similar note, it’s important to repair or replace the pump right away if you note any damage. Put it off, and you could experience the horror of a sewer line backup.
If you hire a professional, installing a new sewage ejector pump costs $850 to $3,500, or an average of $2,300. Otherwise, if you handle the installation yourself, you can expect to pay $500 to $1,000 for the sewage ejector pump, permits, and other supplies required for this DIY project.
Local building codes sometimes require sewer ejector pumps to have their own vents. If so, these dedicated vents run upward through the home and exit through the roof. Otherwise, the pump’s vent pipe can connect to an existing vent stack. Regardless of which method you use, venting is an important part of installing a sewer ejector pump because it helps equalize pressure and prevents gases from building up inside your home.
Yes, it’s possible to install a sewage ejector pump outside rather than in a basement. However, there may be some extra steps involved, including running pipes from the inside to the outside of your home and digging (and re-filling) a hole for the basin. If you aren’t comfortable with this type of work, contact a plumbing pro to handle it for you.
Ejector pumps can only push sewage 750 feet or less. That’s because their purpose is to move waste from your home to your sewer line—which is a relatively short distance. Grinder pumps can transport sewage further, but they manage lower volumes of waste than ejector pumps (and they don’t work with septic systems).
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