This will come in handy when your machine is all washed up
Parts like drain pipes, pumps, and wash baskets are in all washing machines.
Top-open washers have agitator tubes or paddles to move clothes around.
Repair your washer if a part or two breaks, but replace it if any more parts break.
A washing machine has many parts that make it function properly. Familiarizing yourself with the parts of this home appliance will help you identify problems and understand the different types of washing machines. Explore all the parts of a washing machine, including how each one looks, functions, and where you’ll find it.
This part is built into the machine and, while you can’t see it, it does a very important job: circulating water in and out throughout the wash cycle. Some but not all water pumps are also equipped with draining mechanisms, so they’ll empty your machine when the cycle is over, too. But most models use two separate parts—a water pump and a drain pump—for these different jobs.
The supply hose connects the water source in your home to the machine, allowing fresh water to flow in and out freely when the machine is in use.
This runs from the inside of your machine to a small, exterior opening that connects to a drain hose, and it guides used and dirty water out of your machine when the cycle is over.
The drain pump directs used water into the drainpipe to circulate it out of your machine more efficiently. Rather than waiting for the water to find its way to the pipe by itself, this mechanism directs the water where it needs to go, so the process of draining takes no more than a matter of minutes.
Located next to the supply hose, and often the same size and made of the same materials, this hose connects to your plumbing to remove used and dirty water when a wash cycle is over.
This part controls exactly how much water enters your machine by opening and closing at the beginning of a cycle to maintain normal levels. It’s next to the water pump and supply pipe.
Although a lot of washing machine parts are hidden from the eye, it's crystal clear where the wash basket is—after all, it is where you put your clothes. Also called a tub or drum, it’s designed to shift throughout a cycle to ensure your clothes are sufficiently cleaned. In top open models, it accommodates the standing paddle in the center, which does most of the work of moving your clothes around. In front-open machines, though, it does this job all by itself.
There are two types of washing machine motors: direct drive and belt drive. The former directly connects to and controls the wash basket, while the latter is hooked up to a drive belt that moves the basket instead. You’ll find the motor in the bottom of top-open models and the back of front-load machines.
The circuit board is your machine's brain, sending signals to each part to control everything from when water comes in to how much your wash basket moves. If the machine has stopped working entirely, you’ll want to check this part before anything else—it’ll be next to the motor when you want to take a look.
While not all machines have drive belts, the ones that do will also have a drive pulley. This part is responsible for moving the belt back and forth so that the belt can move the wash basket, too.
Drive belts wrap around the base of a wash basket and facilitate its movement. In models that feature this part, you’ll know the drive belt is damaged if your wash basket has stopped moving during cycles.
Washing machines are famous for making quite a ruckus at the height of a cycle, but if they’re noisier than usual, damaged shock absorbers could be your problem. This part is responsible for containing and absorbing the movement of your wash basket, so the machine as a whole doesn’t shift around or come unplugged while it’s running.
Leveling feet are located at the exterior base of a washer and are used to keep the machine balanced and even. Although some machines can be placed directly on the ground, you might find leveling feet necessary if your floor is slightly slanted or your unit is vibrating more than it should.
Timers control the length of a cycle and can be operated manually or automatically. You can choose one of the preset cycles offered or enter the amount of time on your own. While some older machines may not have a timer, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a modern model without one.
The control panel, located at the top or in front of a washer, is where you decide how a wash cycle will go. Connected to the circuit board, it allows you to choose everything from movement intensity to water temperature and how long the machine will run.
The heating element, located in the back of your machine, is responsible for warming the water during a cycle if you choose to do so.
Here are all the additional features you’ll find in a top-load washing machine.
Located in the center of a wash basket, this upright tube is equipped with paddles that move around and prevent your clothes from lumping together during a wash cycle. Not all top-load machines are agitator washers, though. There are also impeller washers, which ditch the paddles in favor of a disc at the base of the machine that creates movement instead.
Also called agitator dogs, these are rubber clips attached to the base of an agitator tube that facilitate its movement. They can wear away after heavy use, so you may need to replace them if the agitator isn’t moving as it should.
This key stops a washer from moving or spinning when the lid is open. On the flip side, it doesn’t interfere with water entering or exiting the machine.
When a cycle starts, the machine engages a part called the lid lock, which prevents the machine from being opened while it’s in action. During a cycle, you may need to stop or pause the washer to release the lock.
The gearcase, or gearbox, connects to the drive pulley system and engages its movement. It determines how fast or intensely the machine as a whole moves throughout a cycle.
This aspect is located next to the gearcase and controls when and how fast it makes the rest of the machine move. If the gearcase is faulty, the shifter assembly will send a message to the control panel indicating an error.
This part is basically the breaks of your machine. It prevents the washer from moving if there’s an issue, and releases to allow the gearcase and shifter assembly to do their jobs if not.
This moveable piece locks or releases to allow the direct drive washer clutch to move. If your machine never starts moving or doesn’t stop on its own, the clutch band may need to be replaced.
Once the breaks have been deactivated, the basket drive is responsible for moving the wash basket.
The drive block connects the basket drive to the motor and circuit board to allow it to move the basket as necessary during a cycle.
This flexible piece connects the motor to the clutch and protects the former if there are any issues with the latter.
Front-load washing machines have a few different parts because the wash basket is installed horizontally rather than vertically as it is in top-load washers—namely, a few extra mechanisms to keep the door in place during a cycle.
Like the lid lock in a top-load machine, door locks keep your washer shut during a cycle, so there’s no risk of your clothes tumbling out during intense spinning.
This part links the door lock to the circuit board and motor and informs your machine that the door is fully shut so it’s safe to move.
The door boot or gasket provides a protective barrier between the door and the wash basket, so the former doesn’t get damaged no matter how quickly or vigorously your machine moves.
The cost to repair a washing machine depends on what part needs to be repaired or replaced and how many parts are malfunctioning. For instance, replacing something simple like the shock absorbers ranges from $120 to $250. New machines range from $300 to $1,000, so making the simple fix instead will definitely cut down on costs.
However, if several replacements are necessary, and each one costs the same as shock absorbers or more, you’re better off swapping your old machine for a new one.
If you know a bit about repairing machinery, and you have the tools to do it, it’s way less expensive to replace old parts yourself. For instance, a new clutch will put you out just $20 and sometimes less, whereas hiring a pro to make the change for you can cost up to $250.
By contrast, if a lot of parts aren’t working, or you just aren’t feeling confident in your engineering abilities, you should hire a washing machine repair person near you instead.
