Shut the door on storms
When’s the last time you thanked your cellar doors? Never, right? Cellar doors are the unsung heroes of a safe, dry storm shelter. They keep out intruders (whether it’s the two-legged or four-legged kind) and provide a safe place for you (and Toto) to hunker down in storms. But do you know how to install cellar doors once they’ve seen their fair share of storms?
If it’s time to replace your cellar door (or install one in a new shelter), you might think about DIYing the job. The process can be a bit complex and requires a lot of tools, so take some time to really assess your skills before you take on this project.
Make sure you’re buying the right-sized cellar doors by measuring the existing doors and the bulkhead foundation (preferably twice).
Cellar doors are available in fiberglass or steel and come in standard sizes. You can also get add-ons such as weatherstripping, gas springs, or even keyed locks for added security. Keep in mind that how you install a storm door on your shelter can vary slightly and require different fasteners, depending on whether you choose fiberglass or steel doors.
If you’re concerned about the cost to build a tornado shelter, installing new cellar doors for your existing basement might be an alternative that works better with your budget.
Your first step is to remove the old cell door and frame. You can use a grinder to cut right through the old hinges, or take a cold chisel to pop out the fasteners. Remove the doors from the frame to make it easier to lift the frame up and away from the house. Take care with the flashing so you can reuse it.
Basement bulkheads are typically installed on a short concrete foundation, so see whether yours needs leveling out. If you need to fix up the foundation, mix up some grout, mortar, or sand mix concrete in a bucket. Prime the foundation by brushing on water, then spread the concrete to smooth out any irregularities. Allow it to set.
Installing a foundation plate will help your steel cellar doors operate smoothly, even if your foundation is uneven brick or stone. Foundation plates also let you use standard-sized doors on nonstandard surfaces.
To install the foundation plate, set the foundation plate in place, mark it to length, and cut it with a grinder or circular saw. Touch up the cut ends with primer or sealant to prevent rust. Set the foundation plate in place and drill holes with a masonry drill bit, then screw it to the foundation using sheet metal screws and anchors.
Typically, you’ll have two side pieces and two rails, or cross pieces. Use 1/4-inch bolts and nuts to attach the pieces together at each end. The bolt heads should face the outside of the frame.
Mark your mounting holes and drill them using a masonry bit, then add anchors.
Once the frame is assembled, set it in place on top of the foundation. Check the frame square and make sure it’s seated and level.
Using lag screws, attach the frame to the house using the center hole. Don’t mount it to the foundation yet—you’ll want to put the doors on first.
With the frame in place, you can finally put the doors on. Slide the door bushings over the pins on each side of the frame, then add the catch rods.
Speaking of opening and closing the doors, give ‘em each a swing to make sure they’re not catching or binding on the hinge. Slide them back and forth if you need to, and make sure they line up evenly and move freely. Adjust if necessary.
With the frame in place and the doors aligned, you can finalize the installation. Using a masonry bit, drill 1 and 3/4-inch holes into the foundation and screw the frame to the foundation, making sure to keep it square and level.
When it’s completely fastened, seal or caulk the frame to keep air and water out. Be sure to put the flashing back in place, as this is what will prevent water from seeping into your house behind the door frame. It’s also a good time to make sure the ground is graded away from the house and that you have some type of stormwater drainage system to remove excess water after storms.
If your door is powder-coated steel or fiberglass—you’re done! If it's primed steel, paint it with alkyd base outdoor metal enamel paint.
Now, you can grab your ruby red slippers and your little dog, too, and enjoy a safe, secure storm shelter for years to come.
If you’re trying to save on storm door installation costs, going the DIY route will help you avoid paying for labor. (With this project, the cost of the door itself can run you between $600 and $1,200 at a big-box home improvement store, not including other supplies.)
However, if you’re dealing with foundation problems, wood rot, or water damage, it might be a good idea to spring for a local door company to do the work. They can make sure your new cellar doors are watertight and professionally installed, which can give you some peace of mind.
Yes, you can add a door to your basement—it might even be required, depending on building codes in your area and whether or not you’re using the basement as a bedroom. A basement contractor can give you some advice on installation and help you add a door to your basement.
No, cellar doors are not all the same size, although they are standardized. Typical sizes are 4 feet or 6 feet wide. Keep in mind that if your cellar bulkhead is very old, it’s probably not standardized. Instances like that are when steel foundation plates can come in handy to ensure your new doors will fit.
The best material depends on what’s more important to you: Cost? Durability? Looks? Steel cellar doors are tough, water-resistant, and heavy, while fiberglass or composite doors can give you the outdoor aesthetics you crave. Most people favor steel because of its strength against storms, but steel is also one of the more costly options.
