How to Stain Wood the Right Way
Stain does more than add rich and beautiful color to your wood project
- Eye protection
- Gloves
- Putty knife
- Power sander
- Stirring stick
- Wood filler
- 120 grit sandpaper
- 180 grit sandpaper
- Wood conditioner
- Plastic drop cloth
Learning how to stain your wood project allows the natural patterns of the wood to show through while tinting it a natural shade of brown, gray, amber, or black. But that’s not the only benefit to adding a wood stain finish. Staining wood properly protects the wood from spills, scratches, and natural warping.
Everyone has what it takes to stain wood like a pro, but it’s not always as simple as choosing a stain and applying it. Use this guide to learn how to stain wood and finish your next DIY project like a pro.
Prepping to Stain Wood
Before you begin staining, sand down the surface of the wood you’re working with. Sanding is important because it removes any existing paint or finishes and smooths and levels the surface. It also removes raised grain and evens out dried glue and filler.
One last prep step: Take the following safety precautions into consideration before using stains and protectants.
Wear masks and eye protection to shield yourself from airborne chemicals and fumes.
Wear gloves, long sleeves, and pants to prevent skin irritation.
Always apply stain outdoors if possible.
If the project can’t happen outdoors, open all surrounding windows for ventilation during application and while drying.
Keep pets and children away from the work area at all times.
How to Choose the Best Wood Stain
The color of a stain is the biggest deciding factor, but it’s not the only factor to take into consideration. Different types of stains are better suited for some projects over others.
Oil-Based Stains
Oil-based stains are arguably the most commonly used type of stain. They are best used for outdoor furniture, large surfaces, butcher block kitchen countertops, dressers, and desks.
Pros of Oil-Based Stains:
Easy to use and apply evenly
Penetrate the wood deeply to prevent peeling
Approved for outdoor use
Produce a natural wood look
Can be applied with a bristle brush or a cloth
Cons of Oil-Based Stains:
Longer dry time when compared to other types of stain
Contain higher VOCs (volatile organic compounds) than other options
Release strong fumes during use that can linger for days
Weak against UV light and mold without a protective finish
Water-Based Stains
Water-based stains can hold their own when compared to other stain types. Consider using a water-based stain for indoor projects where strong fumes are a concern, smaller wood pieces, and kitchen cabinets.
Pros of Water-Based Stains:
Fast drying time when compared to oil-based stains
Typically last longer than other stains
Stay vibrant longer when compared to other stains
Easy to clean up water-based spills and splatters
Mold- and mildew-resistant
Fewer VOCs than oil-based stains
Come in a wider variety of colors
Do not release strong fumes
Cons of Water-Based Stains:
Not as easy to apply as oil-based stains
Usually need a wood-conditioner base
Require multiple coats for color pigments to show
Work best on raw wood
Can’t withstand long periods of direct sunlight
Raise natural grain for a less smooth finish
Tough to coat evenly due to quick drying time
Gel-Based Stains
Gel stains are very different from other stain types. They’re made from a thick, heavy-duty solution that’s more of a paint than a traditional stain. Gel stains sit on top of the wood instead of penetrating the wood. They’re best used on woods that don’t easily absorb stain (like pine, cherry, maple, and birch) and hardwood floors.
Pros of Gel-Based Stains:
Don’t require wood prep
Can be applied on top of previous stains
Durable and long-lasting in high-traffic areas
Still transparent enough to show wood’s natural patterns
Cons of Gel-Based Stains:
Can be messier than other stains
Tend to pool up in certain areas around the wood if the excess isn’t wiped off
Don’t apply evenly on wood furniture with a lot of grooves and angles
Fill Holes and Gaps
Photo: luuuusa / Adobe StockDepending on the type of wood and the look you’re going for, you may need to fill any cracks, gaps, and old nail holes with wood putty or filler. Doing so will give your project a smooth and cohesive look. Feel free to skip this step if you want more of a rustic, natural, or vintage aesthetic.
For this step, you’ll need to purchase a wood filler of your choice and a putty knife to apply it. Carefully follow the directions on the wood filler label to achieve the best results.
Sand the Wood
The next step is to sand the entire surface. Use a medium-coarse sandpaper (120 grit) for the first round of sanding. Evenly sand the entire area you plan on staining.
Then, grab a clean but damp cloth to wipe off all dust from the surface. The water from the cloth will raise the grain. Raising the grain and sanding it will create a smoother and more even finish.
Step back and let the wood dry for at least an hour. Once dry, you should be able to feel small, hair-like fibers raised up on the surface. Sand the surface again with fine sandpaper (180 grit). For a silky smooth finish, run the sandpaper in the same direction as the grain (the tiny fibers on the wood surface) for a smooth finish.
Apply Wood Conditioner
Softwoods (pine, spruce, fir, redwood, cedar, etc.) can benefit from a wood conditioner. This step preps the wood for staining to prevent streaks and blotches. Most pre-stain wood conditioner solutions are applied using a brush. Read the product label carefully for specific instructions.
Apply the Stain
Photo: tatomm / Adobe StockNow it’s time to apply the stain. Because of strong fumes and the potential for drips and splatters, it’s best to use stains outside. If that’s not possible, open all nearby windows, and cover surrounding areas using plastic drop cloth and painter’s tape.
There are four main ways to apply stain—the most common being brushes and rags. Other options include rollers and sprayers. Pick the best tool by following the instructions on the label of the stain can.
Next, open the stain can and use a wood or metal stirring stick to mix the stain thoroughly in the container until it’s smooth. Begin to lightly apply stain using your staining tool of choice. After applying each coat, immediately wipe up excess stain with a clean, dry cloth.
No matter which tool you use, it’s important to apply the stain one thin layer at a time. You can always add another layer to darken the wood, but it’s much more difficult to lighten the stain after applying too much. Continue to stain additional layers until the desired color and coverage are achieved. Ensure the previous layer has completely dried before applying a new coat.
Apply the Sealant
Photo: leszekglasner / Adobe StockApplying a sealant will protect the wood from spills, scratches, and weathering. As a rule of thumb, it’s best to wait at least 24 hours before applying a sealant so that the stain has time to dry completely. Sealant is usually applied with a clean paintbrush—follow the directions on the label for best results.
DIY Wood Staining vs. Hire a Pro
Deciding whether to take on the wood-staining project yourself or hiring a professional to tackle it? That decision usually depends on the size and complexity of the job. For example, most homeowners can handle staining small pieces of wood furniture, but most would hire a local flooring professional to stain their hardwood flooring.
The cost of hiring a pro to complete a wood-staining project depends on the material in question. So, the average deck-staining costs $550 to $1,250, but the cost to stain cabinets ranges from $1,500 to $5,000.
Frequently Asked Questions
A finishing layer is an important step in the staining process. A top coat helps make a stain last longer by protecting it from spills, scratches, and natural weathering.
A lacquer finish is thin, fast-drying, and best used for cabinets, molding, and trim. It’s not recommended for outdoor furniture. Another option is varnish, which has a glossy finish with a protective film and is often used on outdoor wood objects. Polyurethane, known as “liquid plastic,” dries quickly but doesn’t hold up well in the heat. Lastly, a shellac finish adds a warm tint to wood but is affected by heat.
If you want to achieve a deeper, darker stain color, wait 5 to 10 minutes before wiping it off. However, wipe it off faster for a lighter tone. When wiping off the stain during this part of the process, be sure to work in the direction of the wood’s grain for best results.
