Give your patio a new look with a range of resurfacing options
If your patio has seen better days or you’re just ready for a new look, learning how to resurface your concrete patio is a great first step toward a patio upgrade. From stain to a micro-topping or a stencil or stamped concrete overlay, you have multiple options to give your patio a facelift. The effectiveness and longevity of some concrete patio resurfacing methods depend on the condition of the existing concrete. If you’re trying to cover up a concrete patio with several cracks or sloped and sunken areas, replacing your concrete patio may be the better option.
Properly preparing the concrete patio for resurfacing is at least as important as getting the resurfaced concrete to look good. The new surface applied to a concrete patio is only as durable as the prep and the concrete underneath it. Take the time to get the prep right, it’ll be worth it.
It’s not every day you need to know how to clean concrete, but here’s what you should know. To remove rust from concrete and grease stains, scrub the patio with white vinegar. Use a power washer with the 25-degree fan tip to rinse and clean the concrete from about six to eight inches away from the surface. Remove any loose or peeling concrete.
Please note that any active peeling or spalling concrete may continue and cause your overlay material to chip, flake, and peel away as well. If you can loosen more concrete with a wire brush or by scraping at the surface with a putty knife, you’ll want to consider calling a concrete contractor to replace the concrete patio all together.
After you’ve cleaned and rinsed the concrete, allow it to dry thoroughly. Next, apply a cement patching material with a trowel or putty knife to repair the cracks and fill in pits. Get the edges of the patch as close to flush with the surrounding concrete surface as possible. Some overlay materials such as a stamped concrete overlay are usually thick enough and have enough texture to hide any uneven patches and surface imperfections. However, those patches and imperfections will likely show through thinner resurfacing materials such as micro-topping or epoxy paint.
Another note regarding patches: Be aware that if you are applying a transparent stain to your concrete, patches will end up a different color because of the difference in original color compared to the existing concrete as well as the different materials taking stain differently.
Note: This step will be relevant to stamped overlays and micro-topping methods that use a mixed cement-based overlay material to resurface the patio. This step applies to this method of concrete resurfacing like how to resurface a concrete driveway, for example.
After the patches dry for the amount of time recommended by the manufacturer, apply a bonding agent to the prepared concrete. Many bonding agents include latex and/or polymers to create a stronger bond between the old concrete and the new overlay material. Typically, bonding agents can be rolled on with a ⅜-inch nap paint roller. Be sure to read the directions, as some bonding coats should still be tacky when the overlay is applied.
If you’re applying a stamped overlay or micro-topping, be sure to read the directions on the packaging to make sure you’ve got everything ready, as the chemical composition of the overlay may give you only a certain amount of time to work with the material before it sets up too much to manipulate any further without damaging it or causing it to fail.
Typically, you will open a bag of dry overlay mix and pour measured amounts into a five-gallon bucket before adding certain amounts of water and possibly other additives such as liquid or powdered pigment.
Once you’ve combined the ingredients in the bucket, use a power drill with a mixing paddle attachment to slowly begin mixing the ingredients. Be careful to follow the guidance on the packaging. Some materials need to be mixed in a way that does not mix air into the overlay material, as the bubbles can change the chemical reaction and create bubbles and voids in the overlay that can weaken the durability of the finished product.
Note: It is not recommended to add reinforcement fiber into the overlay mixture as the fibers can end up sticking out of the resurfaced patio and injuring bare feet or other skin that comes into contact with the new patio surface.
If you’re using a cement overlay, pour the mixed material onto the prepared concrete and spread it around with a trowel or a gauge rake set to the recommended thickness. The usual thickness for an overlay is from ¼ inch to ⅜ inch, compared to how thick a concrete patio should be at about four inches.
If you’re using stain or epoxy paint, apply with a roller or sprayer, depending on the method recommended by the manufacturer.
Be aware of the amount of working time you have with each material and take into account the weather conditions. Hot, sunny, windy days can shorten the time you have to work by accelerating the chemical reaction in the overlay material or causing the stain or paint to dry out more quickly. Get a sense for how quickly the material sets up or dries and work in smaller sections if it sets up or dries quickly.
Try to avoid “cold joints” where you’re applying fresh overlay material or epoxy to an edge that’s already dried or set up. You want the resurfacing material to be one continuous surface without seams between sections.
Whether you use cardboard or another material to stick into the relief saw cuts in your patio, you will need to honor and transfer those cuts up through the overlay material. Otherwise, the overlay will crack along those cuts as well as any other cracks in the concrete.
This is where the artistry of concrete finishing makes this skill so valuable. Unless you have experience finishing concrete, hiring a concrete finisher for the job becomes worth the time, back-breaking labor, and the stunning finished product.
Mistakes during this part of the process can leave a lasting impression on the quickly hardening cement surface. Sometimes a stick or a leaf falls into the cement or a tool accidentally scratch the surface (because you’re probably tired and ready to be done at this point). An experienced cement mason will know tricks for quickly correcting the little accidents that can happen at the worst times.
If you’re applying a cement overlay, this is when you make the magic happen by stamping the pattern in or applying a broom or swirled-trowel finish to give the overlay some texture for safety as well as aesthetics.
Epoxy paint usually does not need a clear sealer applied. But almost any other resurfacing material should be sealed with a type of concrete sealer designed for decorative concrete. You can tint sealer going over stamped concrete to provide contrast between the higher and lower areas of the texture and pattern for a more realistic look.
Pro tip: Mix a non-slip additive into the sealer so that the resurfaced patio is not as slippery when it’s wet. Sealer without this additive, often a silica or similar material to add grit to the surface, can be very slippery when wet.
Typically, you’ll apply at least two coats of sealer. Use a roller frame with a handle attached to it and a ⅜-inch to ½-inch nap roller cover. Dip the roller into the bucket of sealer and roll the first coat, allowing the recommended amount of dry time between the first and second coats.
It’s important to avoid getting water on the sealed patio within 24 hours of applying the sealer. Also, if possible, it’s best to avoid applying sealer when the temperature may drop below freezing within 24 to 48 hours, as freezing can interfere with the curing process and result in delamination from the concrete as well as discoloration, often showing up as milky white or yellowish spots.
Although you can probably do much of the prep and resurfacing application yourself, the work can become quite hard and require in-depth knowhow when it comes to finishing a stamped or micro-topping overlay. It’s also important to make sure the existing concrete is prepped properly to help extend the longevity of your new patio surface. An experienced concrete finisher will recognize when the existing concrete is unlikely to be a solid base for the overlay material.
You may get a more successful outcome if you’re staining or using an epoxy paint to give your patio a fresh look, as opposed to applying an overlay that needs specialized skills to finish. Regardless, you may want to at least contact a concrete patio company near you for an estimate and a professional opinion.
Resurfacing a concrete slab can be worth it if the concrete is in decent condition and has minor cracks, chips, or discoloration. If the concrete is cracked, peeling, sunken, or broken up, then replacing your concrete is probably more cost-effective in the long run and will give you a better outcome. Resurfaced concrete is only as good as the concrete underneath the new overlay material. If the concrete is peeling or cracked, the peeling and cracks are likely to show through the new surface.
Properly prepared and applied concrete resurfacing can last from 10 to 15 years. The longevity of resurfaced concrete depends on proper preparation as well as the fundamental condition of the original concrete. Depending on the application used to resurface the concrete, reapplying a protective sealer every two to three years can extend the life of the new concrete surface.
Sealing resurfaced concrete is not an absolute necessity. However, it is recommended, and in most cases a high-quality concrete sealer can protect the surface from stains as well as water penetration, extending the life of the resurfacing material. Some sealers are formulated to protect pigments from fading due to UV exposure. Sealer tends to enhance the colors in decorative resurfacing applications, making them more vibrant and richer compared to the duller, more faded appearance of concrete colors without sealer.
