Diamonds last forever, but toilets don’t
If you’re making some serious renovations, installing a new toilet is a great way to spruce up your inner sanctum. Before putting in your new fixture, you need to know how to remove the old toilet. Due to the possibility of stuck bolts and other potential hurdles, this isn’t the easiest project in the world, but the end result is well worth it. Here’s how to remove a toilet in 10 steps.
Whether you noticed signs that it’s time to replace your toilet or you’re looking for a fresh look, there are a few prep tasks to tackle so your removal process goes smoothly. First, clean the bathroom and remove anything that takes up space, such as toilet-paper holders, standalone shelving, and floor mats. Next, gather your tools together ahead of time to speed up each step.
Finally, decide what to do with the toilet once you remove it from the bathroom. Look for a local waste removal pro or a waste management or recycling center that takes used toilets.
To avoid flood-like conditions in your bathroom, turn off the water before you start breaking down the toilet. Locate the shut-off valve located near the toilet. This valve is typically wall-adjacent or on the floor. Twist the valve until the water is off. If the valve is stuck, use some plumber’s grease or break out the adjustable wrench to carefully adjust it.
No one wants their bathroom floor drenched in toilet water. Before proceeding, remove any water from the bowl and tank. Start by flushing the toilet to drain excess water from the tank, and repeat if necessary. If your bowl is stubborn and refusing to completely drain, use a plunger to force the liquid down the drain line. Repeat until all the remaining water is gone, and use a rag or a paper towel to dry the components.
Now it’s time to start breaking down the toilet. Disconnect the water supply line that connects the tank to the wall or floor. Grab your adjustable wrench, unscrew, and remove the bolts from both connection points on the supply line. These bolts see a lot of moisture, which invites rust, so you may experience some difficulty.
For stubborn bolts, apply some plumber’s grease or lubricant to break down any corrosion and try again. Have a rag on hand to catch and wipe up any water that leaks from this line. Set the supply line aside if you need it for installing a new toilet.
It’s time to separate the bowl from the tank. If you have a one-piece toilet, skip this step. The tank features two or three mounting bolts on each side and one in the middle. Remove the nuts from these bolts with the adjustable wrench. If you run into any issues, grease the bolts and try again. These bolts typically don’t come into contact with too much water, so rusting isn’t as prevalent.
Lift the tank from the top of the bowl and set it aside, preferably in an out-of-the-way spot. Feel free to rest it on a towel if you're worried about lingering moisture. If the tank is too heavy to carry alone, don’t risk removing the toilet tank by yourself. Ask a family member or friend to give a hand.
The floor bolts affix the toilet bowl to the floor. Unfortunately, they come into contact with regular moisture, making rust and corrosion a distinct possibility. Start by popping open the toilet bolt caps with the end of a flathead screwdriver (if the bolts have caps). Next, grab the adjustable wrench and work your way around the base, removing nuts, washers, and the actual bolts.
Don’t be surprised if the floor bolts won’t budge due to rust. Break out the plumber’s grease to loosen them up and try the wrench again. Still not budging? Retrieve a hacksaw and cut the bolts off, which should allow you to lift the bowl in a later step.
Most toilets feature a ring of caulk around the base, so grab a utility knife and carefully cut and remove the caulk. This job can get messy, so wear rubber or latex gloves. Next, gently rock the bowl back and forth until it breaks free of any additional sealant. Have a friend help you with this step if needed.
Once you break the sealant, the bowl should lift right up—although another pair of hands helps here. Pick up the bowl and place it gently on its side. To protect your flooring from any remaining moisture, lay it on a towel or a series of rags. Set it out of the way as you complete the few remaining steps.
You aren’t finished yet, but you’re getting close. After removing the bowl, look for a large wax ring where it used to sit. Wearing rubber or latex gloves, remove this wax seal with a putty knife, and wipe away any excess wax with a damp rag. If some wax is stubborn, use a paint scraper to remove it, but be careful not to damage the flooring.
With the wax gone, you should have an unobstructed view of the toilet flange. This flange secures the toilet to the floor drainpipe and is reusable from toilet to toilet, as long as it’s in good shape. Inspect the flange for any obvious damage and clean it with a stiff-wire brush to ready it for another toilet.
If the flange is damaged, call a plumber in your area to remove it, as this is a delicate task requiring multiple tools. Replacing a toilet flange costs about $145 to $165.
In addition to transporting waste, your toilet performs another crucial task: It blocks sewer gasses from entering the home, some of which pose a risk to your health. While awaiting a new toilet, solve this problem by covering the drain hole with a couple of rags and placing an inverted bucket over the flange.
Removing a toilet is a pretty straightforward process for beginner DIYers, and doing it yourself saves money, as hiring a plumber costs $45 to $200 per hour. However, installing a new toilet is a more challenging DIY project, and many pros will remove an old toilet as part of the cost of installing a new toilet—which adds up to $370 on average.
It’s a good practice to have a pro on speed dial should you encounter any hurdles as you work. As a bonus, most pros will dispose of the old toilet according to location-specific rules and regulations. Consider hiring a pro who can also identify any leaks or mold and perform any necessary repairs during the toilet removal process. The average cost to repair a toilet is $240.
Yes, breaking the seal essentially renders the wax ring unusable. Whenever you remove a toilet for any reason, replacing the toilet wax ring is a must before installing a new one. These rings are nifty, however, as they resist mold and bacteria, even years after an initial installation.
This depends on personal preference, though there are key differences between a rubber toilet ring and a wax ring. Wax rings are a tried-and-true design, but you have to toss them after breaking the seal. Rubber rings, on the other hand, are reusable. However, wax rings are much easier to install than rubber rings, making them the preferred material for most plumbers.
The best way to tell if your wax ring seal remains intact is to check the efficacy of the toilet itself. If there are no leaks around the base and everything smells fine, your seal likely remains in good condition. Leaks, odors, or stains on the ceiling below the toilet all indicate a faulty seal. When in doubt, ask a pro to inspect your toilet for leaks or a damaged seal.
