Wide open rooms go with the flow
Open-concept spaces are widely adored by homeowners as they afford plenty of flow from room to room—but it’s not a common feature in many older homes. However, this coveted design can become a reality in your home with a little bit of work. However, knowing how to remove a load-bearing wall can be difficult as these structural elements support a home's weight. Read on to learn more about the complexity of this project.
If you plan to remove a wall in your home, your first step is figuring out how to tell if a wall is load-bearing. Experts recommend inspecting the floor joists, which can be done by entering an unfinished basement or attic and seeing the direction of the beams. If the wall runs parallel to the posts, it is likely not a load-bearing wall. If it's perpendicular, then it is probably a load-bearing wall.
In a finished home, joists are not usually visible. In this case, you must remove the ceiling and drywall to verify the wall type. If you want to avoid doing any removal just to confirm the wall type, there are a few other methods you can try: if you have multiple floors, see if the wall extends through multiple floors. Alternatively, you can also check the roof ridge or refer to your home's building plans.
Because removing a load-bearing wall is a structural change, you will likely need building permits to complete the project. Required permits will vary based on your location but be prepared to go through a rigorous process to get the correct permits and, in some cases, provide an in-depth proposal for a temporary support system. Walls of significant size may necessitate a blueprint drawn up by an architect and certified by an engineer.
Aside from structural work, removing a wall can require electrical work, which requires a permit and sometimes an inspection before work begins. This step will factor into both the cost and the time it takes, as completing this project in one week doesn't consider the time you'll be submitting and waiting on approval for permits.
Once you've acquired the necessary permits, tools, and supplies, you must prep the area. Any furniture should be removed or covered with a drop cloth. It's also a good idea to shut off utilities to avoid electrical accidents. You will likely need a headlamp to see your work if you don't have enough natural light in the room.
To ensure the integrity of your home's structure, you must provide suitable support when removing a load-bearing wall. Adjustable steel columns are a popular temporary support system, as you can adjust the height of the columns.
Start by taking two 2x4 boards and affixing one to the floor and the other to the ceiling. Insert the aluminum steel columns between the two pieces of lumber. If you choose to, you can use additional 2x4 boards instead of steel columns. However, you won't be able to adjust them as easily. No matter which option you choose, ensure there is a tight fit for proper support.
The number of support beams you need will vary based on the size of the wall you're removing. A general rule of thumb is to have one support beam every 8 feet.
While wearing a dust mask, begin breaking down the drywall. Begin by softly striking the drywall situated between the studs. Then, use a sledgehammer or a saw to make a slit in the drywall. Using a reciprocating saw, detach the horizontal ceiling and floor plates, and once they have been cut, use a pry bar to remove them.
Few homeowners have the luck of possessing a load-bearing wall without any mechanical, electrical, or plumbing elements in it. If your wall, when removed, has conduits, plumbing, or HVAC ducts running through it, they will need to be carefully relocated. This is a delicate job, and unless you are highly skilled in this area, it's best to hire a professional structural engineer to take the wheel.
Since you are removing the primary support for the load-bearing wall, you need to replace the wall with a structurally sound support beam. While you can choose to build your own beam, the best solution is to purchase a precut header beam to ensure the safety of your home.
Support beam costs range between $3 to $80 per square foot, depending on your chosen material. LVL beam cost ranges between $3 to $12 per square foot, while steel I beam costs between $6 to $80 per square foot.
Position two king studs from floor to ceiling at either end of the open space. Any current studs should be backed up with added king studs to guarantee they can hold up the additional burden. Nail temporary bolster ledgers against the internal surface of the king studs. These will sustain the beam in place as you attach the jack studs.
The ledgers should be a half-inch deeper than the beam's depth, allowing you to adjust the beam in place against the joists. Measure the internal span between the king studs to verify the beam's length. On the chance that the beam is too long, use a miter saw or circular saw to adjust the length of the beam.
Lifting the support beam onto the beam ledge or support column requires at least two people and can be a heavy task. Start by carrying one end of the beam to shoulder height and securing it on the ledge. Then, pick up the other end and place it in the same position.
Use a laser measure to test for joist movement and sagging, letting you to correctly adjust the beam before you attach side cleats to the king studs on both ends. This will securely hold the beam in place, reducing the risk of slipping off.
Now that the beam is slightly rested below the ceiling, it's time to complete the installation. To firmly secure the beam against the ceiling, it must be lifted by two people. To support the beam, place a block underneath each end. Once the beam is in place, select jack studs to match the weight of the beam and firmly attach them to the king stud with a hammer.
Finally, secure the support beam to the ceiling joists, king studs, and jack studs with metal hurricane straps. After you ensure they are securely fastened, it's time to remove the temporary support and clear away the mess.
After demolishing the wall, dispose of the existing drywall and any other debris that may have been left behind. Then, depending on the amount of damage, patch up or replace any drywall on the ceiling and walls. Install a new type of flooring to replace the one underneath the wall. For aesthetic appeal, consider updating the new area with fixtures and paint.
Removing a load-bearing wall comes with major risks if not completed properly. The most common issue is structural damage, but you risk causing mechanical, electrical, and plumbing issues if rerouting these elements is done incorrectly. Unless you know how to remove a load-bearing wall and have plenty of experience, your best option is to hire a professional structural engineer.
The cost to remove a load-bearing wall ranges between $1,200 to $3,000 for a single-story home. The cost increases for homes with more than one story, ranging between $3,200 to $10,000. While you may save some money by doing the work yourself, if something goes wrong, you risk spending increasingly more to repair structural damage.
Removing a load-bearing wall is best handled by professionals. However, if you have the skill set and decide to DIY the project, you will still need at least one additional person to assist you. Aside from helping with demolition, you'll need another hand to install the new support beam.
No rules state how much of a load-bearing wall can be removed. Rather, you need to adequately support any area that is removed. Support should always be added to as much wall area is being removed. Failing to support the area properly will result in structural damage.
Yes, columns can be used to replace a load-bearing wall. However, you will need to use a support beam as well. Using columns can be a great way to provide additional support for large areas and improve your home's aesthetics.
