How to Tape and Mud Drywall in 7 Simple Steps

DIY to a gorgeous interior update

A man working on drywall
Photo: Fancy / Veer / Corbis / Getty Images
A man working on drywall
Photo: Fancy / Veer / Corbis / Getty Images
SKILL LEVEL
Simple
COMPLETION TIME
2 days
COST
$100–$500
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What you'll need:
TOOLS
  • Power drill
  • Inside-corner taping tool
  • 6-inch drywall knife
  • 10-inch drywall knife
  • Power drywall sander
SUPPLIES
  • Mud pan
  • Drywall mud
  • Paper drywall tape

Mudding drywall, also called taping or finishing drywall, gives your walls the smooth finish they need for adding paint or wallpaper. And it happens to be a fairly simple DIY project that most homeowners can complete themselves over a weekend. Learn all about how to mud drywall yourself while avoiding common drywall problems.

Choosing Drywall Mud and Tape

Drywall "mud" is a gypsum-based paste that you can use to strengthen and smooth the joint and screw indentations that occur after hanging drywall. "Mudding" drywall involves applying multiple coats of mud to these indentations so that they're flush with the wall and no longer noticeable. 

There are two primary types of drywall mud: pre-mixed and powdered. 

Pre-Mixed Mud

Pre-mixed drywall mud has already been mixed with water before you buy it. In general, it's a ready-to-apply mud with a smooth consistency. But there are several different types of pre-mixed mud, and the best type for your project depends on the result you want.

  • Topping mud: Topping mud is used as a finishing drywall coat. It's not as adhesive as all-purpose mud, so you shouldn't use it for first or second coats, but it's great for providing a smooth final finish before painting. 

  • All-purpose mud: You can use all-purpose mud for virtually any mudding project, making it a great option for anyone who's new to drywall mudding. It offers a smooth finish and usually dries within a few hours, depending on your climate. 

  • Lightweight all-purpose mud: After applying a coat of all-purpose mud, you can apply lightweight all-purpose mud for your second and third coats. This mud is thinner than standard all-purpose mud, so it can provide an even smoother finish. 

Powdered Mud

Powered drywall mud—often called hot mud—comes as, well, a powder. So what is hot drywall mud and why would you use it? It is simply a type of finishing material that dries faster than regular mud, such as pre-mixed mud.

You must mix it with water to create the mudding paste. It hardens quickly—usually within 5 to 20 minutes, depending on the type—so it's best used as a quick pre-filler for large holes or to smooth crushed drywall before you begin the mudding process.

Drywall Tape Options

When learning how to tape and mud drywall, you can select among four different types of drywall tape, depending on your specific needs.

  • Paper: Paper tape is the most common and affordable option. It’s a highly durable type of paper, helping to strengthen the seams between drywall sheets while resisting tears. It does not have its own adhesive, so you must secure it in place with mud underneath.

  • Metal-reinforced paper: Some paper tape has a metal reinforced strip that allows it to precisely hold its shape when used on corners. Exposed corners on the drywall can suffer damage over time, but the metal reinforcement protects the drywall.

  • Vinyl-paper composite: Some drywall tape consists of a mixture of vinyl and paper. It’s usually best for odd-angled areas. However, it’s very expensive and it may pull loose from the wall in a room that has significant changes in humidity or temperature levels.

  • Fiberglass mesh: When you need significant strength from the tape, fiberglass mesh is the best choice. It’s more commonly used than all other drywall tapes, except for paper. When comparing paper vs. mesh drywall tape, the mesh tape has an adhesive on the back, simplifying installation. It is mold-resistant, so drywallers often use it in bathrooms. However, it’s not as long-lasting or affordable as paper tape.

Angi Tip

Crystalline silica is a toxic dust that's often generated during drywall installation, which can cause respiratory issues if exposed over time. A professional drywall installation company has the right tools to protect your home and ensure safe air quality after your project is completed.

Caroline Gilbert
Director, Content & Editorial, Angi
  1. Prep the Room (and Yourself)

    Drywall mudding is a messy business, so before you get started, protect your floor with a canvas drop cloth. It's best to use canvas rather than plastic because drywall mud can make plastic slippery. 

    After protecting your floors, protect yourself with a pair of safety goggles—the mud will sting if it gets into your eyes. You'll also want to wear clothing that you don't mind getting dirty or possibly ruining. 

  2. Mix the Mud

    A man mixing drywall mud
    Photo: AleksandarNakic / E+ / Getty Images

    If you're using pre-mixed drywall mud, skip this step. If not, this is when you should mix your powdered drywall with water to create the mud. You can mix most drywall using a paddle bit on your power drill and beating the mud until it's smooth. But check the mud manufacturer's instructions to make sure it doesn't require any additional steps. 

  3. Apply the First Coat and Tape the Joints

    Now that your drywall is mixed and ready to go, it's time to apply the first coat. Grab your 6-inch taping knife and apply the mud to any screw indentations, as well as the joints, also known as seams, between your drywall panels. The joints typically form a two-inch indent—apply enough mud to completely fill the indentation, working it with your knife until it's evenly filled, then wiping away the remaining mud. 

    Once you fill the joint, cover it entirely with a piece of paper tape while it's still wet. You can use your taping knife to smooth it out and remove any bubbles.

  4. Tape the Inside and Outside Corners

    A man applying mud to sheetrock
    Photo: GeorgePeters / E+ / Getty Images

    Next, use your drywall knife to apply a thin coat of mud to both sides of the inside corners of your wall, taking care to fill the seams completely, including where both meet at the center. Then measure, cut, and pre-crease your paper tape so that it fits the seams you just mudded. Apply the tape over both sides of each inside corner, smoothing it with your taping knife. 

    If you have structural drywall corners that you need to apply to your outside corners, now is the time to apply them. Application methods vary, so check with the manufacturer for application instructions. After you apply a structural drywall corner to an outside corner, use your drywall knife to smooth mud over it to create a clean, sharp corner.

  5. Apply Your Second Coat

    Once you mud the joints and corners with a first coat, let it dry—the drying process typically takes a few hours, depending on your climate. After it's dry, apply a second coat of mud to the joints, screw indentations, and inside and outside corners. You'll do this in the exact same way you applied the first coat, minus the taping (which is only necessary during the first coat).

  6. Apply Your Final Coat

    A man installing plasterboard
    Photo: JodiJacobson / E+ / Getty Images

    After letting your second coat dry, apply a third (and final!) coat of mud. For this step, it's best to use a 10-inch drywall knife rather than a 6-inch knife because the wider edge will make it easier to create a thin, smooth application. 

  7. Sand and Finish

    When the third and final coat is dry, you should sand it down to create a polished finish. Before beginning, protect your eyes and lungs by putting on a respirator mask and goggles. Then use a drywall pole sander to smooth all of the areas to which you applied drywall. Once this step is done, you're ready to paint or add wallpaper! 

DIY Tape and Mud Projects vs. Hiring a Pro

Mudding drywall is a fairly straightforward project that most motivated DIYers can complete themselves. Having a pro install and mud drywall typically costs between $1 to $1.50 per linear foot. The total cost usually ranges from $476 to $575 for a standard project.

If you mud drywall yourself, you can skip these costs altogether. Instead, you'll only need to pay for the cost of drywall tools and supplies.

You also have the option of skim coating drywall when finishing it. This involves creating a smooth finish across the entire wall. It represents the highest level of drywall finish. 

The cost to skim coat walls by hiring a pro is $1.10 to $1.30 per square foot. You also can learn how to skim coat drywall yourself and save some money, as you’d only have to pay for materials. However, doing this work at a professional-looking level requires a bit of practice.

On the other hand, there’s nothing wrong with hiring a local drywall contractor for the taping and mudding or for the entire drywall project. The pros can do the work so fast that your walls will be finished much more quickly than you can do it on your own.

Frequently Asked Questions

When you are learning how to tape and mud drywall, waiting for things to dry requires a lot of patience. So how long does drywall mud take to dry? On average, it takes about 24 hours. However, it depends on things like the thickness of the mud, as well as the room’s temperature, humidity, and ventilation. Using thin layers of mud in a warm, low-humidity room with good airflow reduces average drying time. You also could speed up drying time by making use of hot drywall mud, which consists of a powder that you mix with water, instead of using pre-mixed mud. 

The term drywall finish levels refers to the amount of work performed during the finishing process, split into six different options. Each level builds on what was done in the level before it. 

  • Level 0 refers to drywall hung with no finishing work, which you might do in a store room or in a garage. 

  • Level 1 refers to only placing tape over seams between sheets, which you might do in an unfinished basement. 

  • Level 2 requires that you know the basics of how to tape and mud drywall, as it involves putting a thin layer of mud over the tape and over screw holes. You can stop the finishing process here for drywall you plan to cover with paneling, shiplap, or tile.

  • Level 3 refers to placing a full coat of mud over the screw holes and tape. You don’t have to sand it and can leave the texture rough, though, because you intend to apply texture to the wall, such as a knockdown texture.

  • Level 4 requires that you know how to mud and tape drywall, as well as sand it. Apply a couple of coats of mud and sand between each coat to make them smooth. This level is ideal for painting the wall or applying wallpaper to it.

  • Level 5 is the highest level of drywall finishing, requiring full taping, mudding, and sanding skills. You’d then apply a skim coat.

If you initially stop at one of the lower levels of drywall finish, you could return to the job later and finish it to a higher level.

If you have a wall at home where someone did not know how to mud and tape drywall properly, you could have noticeably uneven areas. You can fix this issue by putting drywall mud over paint in the uneven areas, but it takes a bit of preparation. First, clean and sand the area. Sand with a 280-grit sandpaper to slightly rough up the paint. Remove any loose chunks of mud and wipe away dust from sanding. You can paint over the areas with a drywall primer, if desired. Then apply your new mud over the top. You can use any of the different types of drywall mud. Allow it to dry before sanding it. Reapply mud and sand again as needed until it reaches the level of smoothness you want. Then paint the wall your desired color. You also can skim coat the entire painted wall, if desired, rather than fixing only the uneven areas. You must use drywall primer for this process.

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