Max out your space with style
Are you updating your kitchen or bathroom and want to save space? If this sounds like you–consider making a pocket door part of your next home improvement project. Keep in mind, this is not a DIY job for beginners like hanging a standard door, so you need some carpentry experience, and confidence in your ability to make adjustments on the fly. Use this guide to understand what you need to know before you start this project.
A pocket door is a type of sliding door. When open, a pocket door slides along a ceiling track and inside the wall or pocket. An ideal interior door idea for small spaces or for maximizing floor space, a single pocket door can save you 9 to 10 square feet. It’s perfect for solving door clearance problems or for doing more with less in a small living space. There are also pocket door alternatives, such as barn doors and bi-fold doors that get the job done without cutting into the wall.
Since a pocket door slips into the adjacent wall, it's crucial to study the wall before starting the installation. Areas with wiring and plumbing are not ideal locations for this project, for example. Also, if you intend to alter a load-bearing wall, skip the DIY route altogether. Load-bearing walls require the sign-off of a structural engineer and experienced contractor. Opting for a barn door over a pocket door is also a great alternative. If you've located the perfect wall and you're ready to dive in, here's where to start.
Begin by measuring and recording the height and length of your wall and existing door frame. Measure the depth of the wall and drywall to make sure the kit you purchase can fit inside the wall. Take this moment to get to know how to measure a door, and to learn about all its unique parts.
Next, measure the area where the rough opening will be located. Usually, this space is about twice the door's width plus one inch. This is so the pocket door can easily slide into the wall with some room for a doorstop and clearance.
Once you’ve purchased your kit, measure the height and width of the pocket door frame and notate the measurements on the wall beside your rough opening. Your kit's instruction manual will clarify how much drywall you need to remove to access your door header, joist, and wall studs. Use your level to ensure that you measure at the proper angles and that your door will be plumb when inserted.
With It’s time to put on your safety equipment and get to work. Removing the original door frame is the first step to accessing the edge of the drywall.
Cut along the outside of the existing door frame's molding with your utility knife to break the seal. Then, remove the door header and side molding. If needed, you can use the back of your hammer or a pry bar for leverage, but be careful not to damage the part of the wall that will remain.
If they're still in place, remove the hardware from the previous door. Unscrew the hinges or latch plate and set them aside. Next, loosen or cut the nails holding your door jamb in place, and then use a pry bar to remove the jamb from the inside of the doorframe.
Double-check that the wall you've chosen does not have wires behind it before cutting. Finally, use your oscillating tool—also referred to as a multipurpose tool—to cut along your previous markings and remove one side of the drywall.
Now drywall removed, you can now see the interior of your existing wall and determine if it needs any adjustments, such as adding studs and headers. Each kit is slightly different, so it’s best to double-check your manufacturer’s instructions before following the steps below.
You may need to add or replace a wall stud. In this case, we recommend installing a wall stud before cutting out the existing one. The stud should be set far enough back so you have enough room for a rough opening that fits your measurements.
Measure and cut the stud to fit the existing frame. It’s important to make sure this stud is plumb, as it will need to be flush with the edge of the pocket door frame. Cut the lumber to the correct side and install the stud by screwing it to the existing wall frame.
Once the new stud is in place, you can go ahead and cut out the old wall stud using your reciprocating saw. Remove any screws, and cut or sand any rough edges so they don’t catch on the bottom of the pocket door.
Now that your rough opening is complete, it’s time to get busy installing your new pocket door. This will be slightly different with each kit, but the basics are usually the same. Make sure to refer to the instructions to be sure before you begin.
Depending on the height of your wall and pocket door, you may need to adjust the height of the pocket door frame. If you purchased a wooden or composite frame, you’ll need to trim the frame with your reciprocating saw. Luckily, many manufacturers pre-stamp the wood for standard wall sizes to make this step easier.
Before placing the frame, check the instructions for any external hardware you may need to attach to your rough opening before placing the frame. Install brackets to place the split studs and track.
Measure carefully and secure any hardware to your rough opening using the provided screws or nails. Make sure any hardware pieces are flush, plumb, and level to prevent problems down the road.
Now might be a good time to ask a friend or family member to lend a hand. Insert the frame into the rough opening. Have someone steady the frame while you check that it is properly aligned with the structure. If needed, use wood shims to square the frame.
Measure and install the hardware, if provided. Secure the frame to the existing wall frame per the manufacturer’s instructions, making sure to re-measure when necessary.
Your first step is to install your door’s hardware. Attach the hanging hardware about 2 1/2 inches from the edge of the door on either side. Make sure the hardware is level and flush so the door can roll smoothly into the pocket.
Next, install the bumper to keep your pocket door quiet and ensure it’s sliding smoothly into the pocket. Install the two roller brackets into the track. For added stability, you can invert these so they act as a mirror image with the single wheel on the inside. This will help your door roll evenly and smoothly.
With a friend’s help, insert the door into the frame at a perpendicular angle. Attach the hanging hardware to the first roller bracket and lock it into place. Pivot the door so it’s parallel to the frame and attach it to the second roller bracket. Lock this side into place.
Adjust the roller brackets up and down to help you level the door. Your pocket door kit should come with a small wrench or tool for this adjustment. Level the door by tightening or loosening the roller brackets.
Finally, test your door to make sure it slides easily into and out of the pocket; make any adjustments before closing the wall. We recommend unlocking brackets and removing the door while you install drywall and paint. This will help you avoid damaging your new door.
Whatever method you chose to install your drywall, make sure that any drywall screws do not protrude past your newly installed pocket door frame. You’ll want to measure carefully, but usually, a standard 1 1/4-inch drywall screw will avoid scratching your new door.
Now is also the best time to repaint your wall. Make sure your new door is out of the way. Once your paint has dried, install the door jambs to the door frame. You should have three door jamb pieces—two that are split and one that is regular—since the door will need to slide between the split jamb.
Door hardware is usually sold separately and may vary depending on the manufacturer. If the door hardware has a lock, you may need to mark, drill, chisel, and install the lock hardware on the opposite door jamb.
Lastly, install the door guides to help your door slide smoothly and keep it from getting pushed too far into the pocket. They usually attach at the bottom of the split door jamb with a single screw to hold them in place.
On average, the cost to install a door with the help of a professional is about $1,100. The price of installing a pocket door by yourself, on the other hand, starts around $350 without the cost of tools. So, while you'll cut your costs by more than half doing it yourself, this is a complex project. Removing and reinstalling drywall is not an entry-level job. Always call a local door installation team if you are doubt about doing the job correctly.
Yes, you can usually add a pocket door to an existing wall if it’s not load-bearing. If you don’t know, check with a professional. It’s easiest to install a pocket door on a non-load-bearing interior wall, with no hidden electrical, plumbing, or ductwork. If you don’t know how to check this, it’s best to hire a pro to check for you or complete the project.
Yes, depending on the location and the requirements above, you can often replace a regular door with a pocket door. It can save room and make your layout feel more spacious.
Often people use pocket doors when they want to save space. This could mean replacing an awkward bathroom door or adding a pocket door in your living room. There is a wide range of pocket door styles available that look stylish and can open up the floor plan in virtually any room.
