You’ll have a strong new fence in no time
An aluminum fence can improve your home security while adding a stately vibe to your property. One big perk of aluminum fences is that they typically cost less than the price of wrought iron fences, but they offer a similar look and feel. And you don't always need a pro to install one, especially if you consider yourself a fairly handy homeowner. Use this guide to learn how to install an aluminum fence like a pro to save money and add a little value to your home.
Before you install a fence, make sure that any holes you dig won't damage underground utilities, which can lead to very costly problems. You can call 811 to find out the approximate location of utility lines in your yard.
You should also check your property lines to make sure that the fence will only be installed on your property; if it creeps onto your neighbor's property, they can ask you to remove it. Finally, check the permit and zoning laws in your neighborhood, as they might dictate the size, placement, and other features of your fence. If needed, obtain a building permit from your town or city.
Before you start digging holes, take some time to mark off your fence layout by driving stakes into the ground where you plan to install the corner posts, end posts, and gate posts. This will ensure you install each fence post exactly where you want it. A tape measure comes in handy here. Start by driving stakes into the ground where you plan to install the corners of your fence, then drive stakes where you want the end posts and gate posts to sit.
End posts only have punched holes on one side since they're designed to sit at the end of a fence, usually against a house or another structure. Gate posts have special holes designed to attach to the gate hinges. Make sure to account for your gate's exact measurements when driving the stakes for it. It's also easiest to install a gate on flat ground, so keep that in mind when marking off where you want to put it.
Once you've driven stakes into key anchor points for your fence, grab a long string and tautly run it around the corner fence stakes to help define the fence line. Then use a tape measure and your fence manufacturer's measurements to drive a stake through each area where you plan to install line posts, aka the fence posts that sit in between the corner, end, and gate posts. Make sure each line post stake sits directly against the string so your fence will be straight. If the fence line you created won't neatly accommodate all of the panels, which are usually around 6 feet, you can use a hacksaw to cut one or more of the panels so that they'll fit tightly within your fence line.
If the plot where you plan to install the fence is relatively flat, you can skip this step. However, if you have a slope, it's best to plan for it accordingly.
If your slope is less than 12 inches across a 6-foot fence panel, you can rake the fence to meet the slope. This essentially means you can install the fence at an angle without any special posts or instructions. Just take care that when you install the posts, the fence panels create an even line along the ground. This is especially important if you have pets or kids that you're worried about crawling under the fence.
If your slope is greater than 12 inches across a 6-foot panel, it's best to stair-step the fence. Stair-stepping involves installing each fence panel a little higher than the last along the slope, creating a fence line that looks a bit like ascending stairs. For the stair-stepped portion, you'll want to use end posts instead of line posts. The predrilled holes can work on one side of the fence connection, but you'll need to drill additional holes to connect the other side since the fence panels will be at different levels.
Now it's time to start digging the holes where each fence post will go. For this step, it's best to use a power auger or fence post-hole digger. Use either one to dig holes wherever you drove in stakes during steps one and two. Make sure to check the fence manufacturer's instructions for how deep and wide the hole should be, but a good rule of thumb is at least one-third of the post length deep and three times the post width wide. The hole should also be slightly larger at the bottom than at the top to help create stability.
Once you dig your holes, it's a good idea to add about six inches of gravel to the bottom of each hole. This will help drain water away from the post, preventing water damage and helping your fence last longer.
After you dig all of your fence post holes, fill them with the appropriate posts. Make sure that corner posts go into corner holes, line posts go into line holes, and end and gate posts go into their respective holes. Don't worry too much about making sure they're plumb and level until you start pouring concrete.
Next, mix up your concrete and pour it into each hole until it reaches the surface. It's helpful to have a friend use a level and hold the post for you to ensure it's plumb and level when you pour. Let the concrete completely dry before moving to the next step. If you opted for fast-setting concrete, which is recommended, it should dry in about 20 to 40 minutes (hello, lunch break!), but it's best to wait at least an hour before moving to the next step.
You can also use a mix of gravel and soil for this step, but concrete provides more durability and stability.
Once your posts are all installed and the concrete is dry, it's time to connect all of your fence panels. This process will look a bit different depending on the exact fencing system you buy. However, it typically involves using a power drill or screwdriver to attach the panels to the corresponding posts using hardware, like screws and hinges, provided by the fence manufacturer.
Finally, if you're adding a gate to your fence, now is the time to install it. Find your designated gate posts, also called hinge posts, and attach the gate using the hinges and screws or bolts that came with it. Double-check that the gate is level and the hinges are at the right height. If you're using a gate stop, install it on the opposite side of the hinges using the screws that came with it.
The cost of aluminum fencing ranges from $17 to $90 per linear foot. If you hire a nearby fencing pro to install it for you, you'll typically pay an additional $30 per linear foot in labor costs. Taking on this project yourself means you can skip labor costs altogether, only paying for the price of the fence itself. However, keep in mind that digging fence holes requires the tools mentioned above, so you'll want to factor those into the overall cost of your budget, as well.
Yes, it's typically best to set aluminum fence posts in concrete. You can technically use a mix of gravel and soil instead, but concrete is more stable and secure. Concrete also lasts longer and does a much better job of withstanding the outdoor elements than a gravel or soil mix.
Aluminum is among the longest-lasting fencing materials, with a lifespan of 30 to 50 years or more. One of the reasons it lasts so long is because aluminum is highly resistant to rust and corrosion. You can help prolong its lifespan by keeping it free of vegetation and cleaning it every few months with a hose and mild soap.
When it comes to aluminum fence post depth, the posts should typically be about one-third of the length of the fence post deep into the ground. However, it's always best to check with your fencing manufacturer's recommendations to ensure you install it at the recommended depth for stability.
You don't need gravel under metal fence posts, but it's always a good idea to add it in. Adding about six inches of gravel before you pour concrete will provide better water drainage, which can help to prolong the lifespan of your new fence and maximize its stability.
