Don’t let a clog make your day—or your water—harder
Hard water is a nuisance that water softeners prevent—at least until they get clogged. There are a number of different ways a plumbing feature like this can get backed up, from salt buildups in the brine tanks to a damaged part flooding your faucets with purifying resin beads. But how do you tell where the clog is coming from, and, more importantly, how do you solve it?
This guide breaks down all the different ways to discover and deal with blockages, so you know how to fix a clogged water softener yourself.
A water softener is a device that filters incoming water through a purifying system that removes hard minerals and other impurities before they flow through your faucet. There are many small parts of a water softener, but two major components are the brine tank and the resin tank. Water is directed into the resin tank, where the resin beads attract and connect to minerals that cause hard water, like calcium, before finally being ushered into your home.
The brine tank is filled with salt and water and rinses the resin beads once every one to three days to recharge their lost sodium and potassium particles in a process known as regeneration, which allows the whole system to continue working without the need to replace the beads each and every time.
But why should you consider getting one? There are many benefits to having a water softener, from making it that much more likely your pipes won’t clog from a mineral buildup to being gentler on your laundry, hair, and skin.
The cost to install a water softener ranges from $200 to $6,000 and what you’ll pay depends on the size, style, and capacity of the model you choose. You can save between $150 and $1,000 by going the DIY route—but at the risk of improper installation and unintended plumbing damages.
Not sure if your water softener is clogged or not? Keep an eye out for these clues.
Soapy spots on glasses: The minerals in hard water create the effect of soap stains on dishes and countertops.
Low or no water pressure: There are plenty of issues that cause low water pressure, like a problem with your water supplier, so make sure it’s not something else before assuming it’s your water softener.
Resin beads coming through faucets: If you spot small, sand-like particles in your water or the water is a different brownish color, this could signal an issue like a ruptured resin bed.
Presence of hard water: If your showers leave your skin drier than normal or your hair more brittle, combined with lower water pressure, that could be because your water softener isn’t doing its job.
There are several different kinds of water softener clogs, each requiring a specific fix. These DIYs are achievable but don’t hesitate to hire a water softener pro near you if you have any doubts.
Salt bridges form when salt crystals link together to form a hard crust. While it can happen from any kind of salt, you’re less likely to experience this issue by using a higher-quality water softener salt with fewer impurities. If you’ve determined that this is your water softener problem, here are the next steps to take.
Turn off the water supply.
Tap a rubber mallet along the exterior of the brine tank, moving from the bottom up to loosen the salt masses within.
Once you hear a hollow sound, strike the tank with more force to break the bridge.
Add new salt to your tank, restart the water supply, and your softener will return to normal in two to three days.
Finding resin beads or noticing a change in color in your water supply is a sign that the resin bed in your water softener has been disrupted. That could be because the resin beads have lived out their lifespan and are no longer regenerating. Instead, they are disintegrating and slowly entering your water supply.
It could also be due to damage to an interior water softener part that allows the beads to flow into your home with the treated water. Here’s what you need to do if this is your issue.
Turn off the water supply.
Detach the tank from the pipes and the control head and the attached manifold tube from the tank.
Replace any broken parts, like a cracked basket at the bottom of the manifold tube, which normally prevents resin from flowing out with your softened water supply.
Empty the resin tank of water and the remaining resin beads. Use a hose to rinse out bits that are stuck to the tank interior.
Return the manifold tube to the tank and seal the open top of the tube with duct tape.
Pour in five inches of gravel, then fill the tank up to 15 inches below the top.
Remove the tape and reattach the control head.
Reattach the tank to the pipes and the brine tank.
Salt has a tendency to harden and form a crust over time, even in the smallest of spaces—like in a fine brine line pipe. When that does happen, the blockage prevents the brine from traveling to the resin tank, in turn inhibiting the regeneration process of the resin beads. Here’s how to take care of this element if you’ve determined it’s the source of your problems.
Locate and disconnect the brine line that connects to the control valve.
Use a can of compressed air to fit into the tight opening and blow out the salt buildup within.
If you’re still dealing with a blockage after all that, it might be time to replace the brine line.
While it’s possible that a water softener will clog at some point in its lifespan, that’s not written in the stars. Here are some steps you can take to make sure it always runs as it should.
There are many different types of water softener salt, including pellets, crystals, rock salt, potassium chloride, and solar sea salt. In general, the best options are those with the least impurities or additives. Most of those options come pretty close to perfection, but pellets are often ranked at 100% pure, meaning they’re the least likely to cause problems down the line.
The ideal salt level for a water softener is about a half-full tank, though a quarter-full tank will also do the job. Avoid letting it fall below that minimum to guarantee a proper regeneration is always possible.
Learning how to clean a water softener is simpler than you might think, and doing it every four months is a good way to keep it in working order. Plan to do a task like this before you go to bed or when you know you won’t be using much water, because the softener will need about two hours to recharge after cleaning. Remove the cap from the brine well and pour in an entire container of water softener cleaner, press the recharge button, and check back in two hours.
Resin beds don’t last forever, and at some point, you’ll probably need to replace yours as instructed above. You’ll know it’s time if you spot degraded resin beads in your water supply or if you suddenly have hard water.
Some water softener clogs—like a salt bridge or a blocked brine line—are easy to unclog yourself. However, replacing a resin bed is a bit harder, and if you don’t do it right, your water softener won’t work properly.
Water softener repairs cost between $160 and $980, but the good news is that smaller fixes, like replacing a resin bed, are on the lower end of that scale. Learn who repairs water softeners so you can find the right pro in your neighborhood.
With regular maintenance, like refilling salt levels or refreshing resin beds as necessary, water softeners last between 10 and 25 years. This can vary depending on the type of water softener you have, its size, and capacity. However, the average water softener has a lifespan of about 15 years.
You can repair a broken water softener, but only depending on the extent of the damage. If small fixes are required, this appliance can be restored to its former glory, often as a DIY project. However, if there are lots of different damaged parts and the total cost to repair is 50% or more of the cost of buying a replacement, it’s best to get a new one.