How to Build a Shower Base for a Walk-In Shower in 8 Steps

Start your bathroom’s reinvention this weekend

A bathroom with a walk-in shower
Photo: adamkaz / iStock / Getty Images
A bathroom with a walk-in shower
Photo: adamkaz / iStock / Getty Images
SKILL LEVEL
Challenging
COMPLETION TIME
2 days
COST
$150–$200
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What you'll need:
TOOLS
  • Measuring tape
  • Pencil
  • Concrete screeding and finishing tools
  • 5-gallon pail
  • Power drill with mixing attachment
SUPPLIES
  • Two-by-four lumber
  • Two-by-six lumber
  • Scrap lumber pieces
  • Bed mortar (50- or 80-pound bag)
  • Felt paper or 6-mil sheet plastic

Preformed fiberglass shower pans are standard components when remodeling a shower. But if you’re considering a custom shower to fit your new bathroom remodel plan or to achieve a specific aesthetic, you need to know how to build a walk-in shower base. DIY shower construction is a big job requiring skill and patience. If you’re not sure you can handle this project, it’s better to call a pro now rather than wait for costly repairs.

Choosing a Shower Pan

You’ll need to do a little bit of prep before you start building. It’s also important to remember the setup work, whether remodeling your entire bathroom or replacing just the shower. 

Figure out the design and layout of your shower on paper. Take precise measurements and map out your plumbing, including where your fixtures will go, such as the showerhead and faucet handle. Decide where you’ll place your shower door and the shape and size of your shower.

From there, you can choose a shower pan size and shape that will work best for your needs. The most common is a square pan between 30-by-30 inches and 42-by-42 inches, although there are pans in rectangle, corner, and neo-angle shapes. If your shower is a custom job, you may need to order a custom shower pan to fit the space.

  1. Prep to Build the Base

    Mortar and tile products are heavy. Ensure your floor joists and subfloor are up to the job before moving forward. If your new shower requires new wall construction or moving the plumbing, call a local plumber and drywall contractor to complete that before moving forward. When the room is ready, do the following prep work:

    1. Remove your tub (if converting a tub to a walk-in shower).

    2. Make any necessary subfloor or joist repairs. 

    3. Outline your new shower on the floor in pencil. 

    4. Remove the drywall to about 6 feet above the subfloor in and near the shower.  

    5. At floor level, cut and install 2-by-6 blocking between each exposed stud space. Then, secure the blocks with exterior-grade screws.

  2. Build the Shower Curb

    The curb defines the shower’s outline and keeps water from immediately escaping the area if the drain clogs. 

    • Using exterior-grade screws, affix two-by-four lumber lengths at the shower curb location that you drew out earlier. 

    • Stack and secure two more layers of two-by-four boards on top of the first boards.

  3. Pour the Mortar Subfloor

    A shower floor consists of two layers. The subfloor is made of a bed of mortar and creates a slope towards the drain. 

    • Glue the two-piece drain into place if you or the plumber haven’t already. 

    • Remove the top half of the drain and use a rag to block the drain opening. 

    • Lay felt paper or plastic underlayment flat on the subfloor. Cut a hole in the material at the drain location to expose the drain. 

    • The first mortar bed should meet the top of the lower drain piece. Calculate a 1/4-inch-per-linear-foot pitch away from the drain. 

    • Mark the height of the outside edge of the mortar bed and measure the distance to the existing subfloor.

    • Using scrap pieces of lumber, cut several blocks (about one per foot) and place them at the outer edges of the shower to use as screeding blocks. You’ll leave these blocks in place after pouring the bed.  

    • Mix the mortar following manufacturer instructions in the 5-gallon pail. 

    • Pour the mortar bed and trowel it smooth, using the screed blocks and the top of the installed drain bottom as a guide. Take care to avoid blocking the drain’s weep holes. 

    • Allow the bed to cure overnight.

  4. Install the PVC Shower Pan Membrane

    You can purchase a PVC shower pan membrane in almost any size you need at your local home center or hardware store. 

    • Lay the membrane flat onto the mortar bed, continuing it up the walls about six inches and covering the entire shower curb.

    • With roofing nails, attach only the membrane’s top edge to the wall. Leave the membrane draping over the curb.  

    • Fold the corners into themselves and tuck the excess between the corner stud spaces with a plastic taping knife. Use caution not to cut the material. 

    • Alternatively, use a wood chisel to create a void to tuck the liner material into at the corners. 

    • Carefully cut the liner around the drain to expose it and the connecting bolts. 

    • Use silicone caulk to seal the cut edge to the drain piece. 

    • Remove the stuffed rag and bolt the top half of the drain to the lower part. 

    • Use painter's tape to cover the drain once again.

  5. Install the Cement Board

    Installing tile in a wet location requires using a proper substrate. Check your local building code for any additional requirements to the following steps. 

    • Staple a plastic sheet, felt paper, or another vapor barrier over the exposed wall studs to meet code. Avoid stapling below the top of the PVC liner.

    • Install cement board to code and snug against the top of the mortar subfloor. Avoid installing fasteners below the top of the liner. 

    • Conceal the shower curb, fully encasing it with the cement board. You can use fasteners through the liner here. 

    • Cover the exposed screw heads at the shower curb with silicone caulk.

    • Caulk the gap between the cement board edges and the mortar bed with silicone caulk.

  6. Lay the Expanded Metal Lathe

    An expanded metal lathe provides extra strength to your shower base. 

    • Cut a piece, or several, of expanded metal lathe and lay them over the mortar subfloor.

    • Leave the drain and a 1-inch space around it uncovered. 

    • The shower curb doesn’t need lathe coverage. 

    • You don’t need to secure the lathe with fasteners. The next mortar bed will hold it in place.

  7. Pour the Shower Pan

    The second mortar bed provides a finished surface for tiling. 

    • With a pencil and straightedge or chalk line, create a line 1 1/2 inches above the subfloor’s height around the shower’s perimeter.  

    • Adjust the drain height to create a 1-inch space between the drain’s top and the bolted-on upper part. 

    • Mix another batch of bed mortar.

    • Pour, screed, and trowel smooth a second mortar bed using the chalk line and the drain’s height as your guide.

    • Allow the bed to cure overnight. 

  8. Install Tile

    Closeup of gray shower tile
    Photo: Hanna / Adobe Stock

    Your shower base is now ready for your best shower tile ideas:

    • Twist the drain left or right until it matches the tile height. You may have to insert needlenose pliers or another tool into the drain to get a grip. 

    • Or, you can simply hire a bathroom tile installer near you to do the rest.

Cost to Build a Walk-In Shower Base

On average, shower pan replacement costs $900 to $2,300. Different materials are available for shower pans, and the cost will depend on your chosen material. Fiberglass shower pans start at $150, while tiled shower pans cost up to $3,500. Your location will impact your out-of-pocket costs, as will the labor required for your project.

DIY vs. Hiring a Pro

Building a shower base yourself isn’t an easy task, but it has a high feel-good factor when it’s complete. It can even save a few remodeling-budget dollars. However, DIY shower base construction isn’t everyone’s favorite way to spend a weekend, and a costly mistake won’t save you anything on bathroom remodeling costs. If you’re not experienced or simply would rather relax on your weekend, a shower installer near you can help.

Frequently Asked Questions

Most modern showers have a prefabricated base made from fiberglass or plastic, such as acrylic or polyurethane. Nonetheless, concrete mortar is still the traditional, go-to base for a custom walk-in shower. 

You’ll need to add a waterproofing liner or membrane between the layers of mortar to keep moisture out. From there, you can top it with whatever type of tile you like to create a spa-like custom look. Be sure to include these considerations in your budget for the cost of a walk-in shower.

The words shower pan and shower base are often used interchangeably, but they have different meanings. The base is the structure underneath the shower, its veritable foundation made from cement mortar. The shower pan rests on top of the base and is essentially the shower floor. This is made from acrylic or fiberglass, but you could use tile or another material like cultured stone.

Per the International Code Council, walk-in shower floors should have a minimum slope of 1/4-inch per foot (or a 2% slope) sloping towards the drain. The slope should be no steeper than 1/2-inch per foot (or a 4% slope). This helps safely direct water into the drain rather than all over your bathroom.

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