How to Build a Sliding Gate for Your Deck

Gate Planning

During the planning phase, carefully assess your space constraints. Your existing railing must allow adequate clearance on one side for the sliding gate, equivalent to the gate's width, with an additional foot for stability (more on this shortly). It is necessary for unobstructed movement. If you need expert guidance, consider working with a local fence professional.

Cut the Wood

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The sliding gate should cover the deck entrance fully but overlap your existing railing when closed by one foot for extra support. 

Cut the lumber to fit the gate length you are building. Gate openings are usually 36 inches or 48 inches wide. When you add one foot for the overlap, they should be 48 inches or 60 inches. The top and bottom pieces of lumber will be the exact length. 

Typically, gates and rails for decks are 42 inches above a deck’s surface. Measure your existing deck railing to determine your gate’s height. Remember, you want your gate to match your current deck’s railing height. When measuring the side pieces of lumber for height, they will fit inside the top and bottom pieces, impacting final measurements.

Lightly Sand and Stain

After cutting the lumber, consider lightly sanding and staining. Protecting pressure-treated pine with staining will shield it from cracks and splits due to seasonal fluctuations and extend its lifespan.

First, use a fine-grain sanding block to sand the cut surface quickly. Avoid sanding other areas because it will remove the chemicals protecting the wood from weather conditions. Next, using a brush, apply an oil-based stain made for outdoor use. Water-based stain is not recommended for pressure-treated wood because it’s chemically treated and can’t absorb it. The stain will take about a day to dry.

Install the Sliding Gate Hardware

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Place the cut lumber on a work table to form the gate. Then, secure the corner brackets from the sliding gate hardware kit on all four connecting points of the gate’s frame.

Sometimes, two-by-fours are not perfectly straight. You may need a rubber mallet to seat the wood in each bracket properly. Just tap until the wood slides into place. Use the screws in the kit to secure the brackets using a drill. Each bracket will have pre-drilled holes, crystalizing where the fastener goes. Afterward, attach the barrel bolt inside the gate, near the top, per the manufacturer’s instructions.

Following the kit's instructions, install the wheels on the bottom of the gate. The brackets will determine placement for equal spacing. When installing, ensure the wheels are level and secure using the screws and bolts provided in the hardware kit. During this process, you may need a wrench for bolts and a drill for screws. 

The kit includes two hooks that attach the gate to your existing railing to aid gliding. These hooks aren’t compatible with every railing—if that is the case, step six shares a fix using pipes.

Attach the Balusters

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The snap and lock baluster kit simplifies this step. Building codes in most areas require baluster spacing to be less than four inches. To measure this, mark where the center baluster will go inside the gate, ensuring the top and bottom are perfectly aligned. Afterward, measure outward on each side for the remaining balusters. 

Next, attach the connectors to the marked areas at the top and bottom inside the frame using a drill and the included screws. Then, snap and lock each baluster in, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Attach the Galvanized Pipe

If the hooks in your kit aren’t compatible with your existing railing, this pipe hack will ensure the sliding gate opens and closes smoothly. The top and bottom of the sliding gate will each have a pipe on the exterior facing side.

First, install 1” eye screws to accommodate the two 3/4-inch diameter pipes for the sliding gate. You don’t want a tight fit as you need room for gliding. Ensure the eye screw is smaller than the pipe caps: The caps act like stoppers, keeping the sliding gate in place. You must also ensure the eye screw placements align with your existing railing. You will add eye screws there, too.

Place the eye screws above or below each bracket in the center of the lumber. Using your measuring tape, ensure each side is perfectly aligned and mark the drill holes. Drill pilot holes for the screws, then place the eye screws and attach them securely. Slide each pipe along the bottom and top, then pop on the caps so they don’t slip out.

Attach Eye Screws to the Existing Railing

First measure for placement. You want to ensure the sliding gate is aligned and level with the existing railing. Next, mark where you will install two eye screws directly next to each other to the top and bottom of the existing post in the middle (total of four). Make sure to place them inside the railing.

Install the Sliding Gate

With the help of a friend, hold up the sliding gate and place it at the entrance from the inside. It should sit behind your existing railing. Remove the caps from the pipes and slide them into the eye screws on the rail post. Pop on the caps. Now, your gate should glide open and closed.

If you installed the hooks included with the sliding gate hardware kit, just slip it over your existing railing.

Install the Latch Mechanism

There are many types of gate latches to choose from. Attach the latch mechanism on the existing gate post on the side that closes following the manufacturer’s instructions. You will need to use your drill to attach the screws. 

First, measure for placement. The mechanism needs to align with the barrel bolt to close securely. Test the gate to ensure it opens and closes smoothly and locks securely. If all is well, pat yourself on the back.

Maintenance

Periodically check and lubricate the gate's moving parts to ensure it continues to operate smoothly. Inspect for any damage or wear and make repairs as needed.