When you need a fence as welcoming as your home, picket is the way to go
If you've always daydreamed about coming home to a white picket fence that lines a newly planted veggie garden, why not consider building it yourself? Of all the fence ideas for your yard, a picket fence is both classically quaint and highly DIYable. Here's how to build a picket fence yourself over the course of a plans-free weekend.
While most outdoor projects are best suited for the spring, you can get a jump-start on your fence planning in the winter by choosing your favorite design, marking the best place for your fence, and gathering all your supplies well ahead of time.
Additionally, before building a picket fence, you should call your utility company or dial 811 to check the location of underground utility lines on your property. You’ll have to place your fence posts multiple feet into the soil where utility lines may lie. It’s crucial not to crack open a water, gas, or electrical line, which could be incredibly dangerous and potentially lead to electrocution.
It's also important to make sure you don't build outside your property line. Find where your lawn ends and your neighbor's begins to avoid any disputes, fines, or uncomfortable barbecues. You can find property lines for your home by visiting your local assessor’s office or hiring a land surveyor near you.
By getting these steps done early, you can build your fence during the season’s nicest days and enjoy the weather at the same time; it’s a win-win.
When you're ready to jump in, lay out all of your fence posts, rails, and pickets in the general area where you plan on putting them. Laying everything out beforehand ensures that you won’t have to do a lot of running back and forth when you’re ready to start putting the posts in the ground and framing the fence.
For a little clarification, here’s a quick overview of the anatomy of a picket fence:
Posts are the vertical beams that go into the ground that builders often anchor with a concrete footing.
Rails are the horizontal beams that link your posts.
Pickets are the vertical beams that go between your posts but do not go into the ground.
Next, measure the distance of your fence along the ground and mark it with a snap chalk line or spray paint. Use utility flags to mark any nearby areas you need to avoid when digging.
After that, use a different color of utility flag or spray paint to mark the placement of your posts. Posts for a wooden fence should sit between 5 and 8 feet apart. If you're working with pre-constructed fence panels, place your posts according to these measurements. Remember to leave an opening for a gate if you plan on building one.
When you're ready to dig your post holes, double-check your measurements and the layout of your fence one last time. Here's what you should know about post holes before you break ground:
As a rule of thumb, 1/3 of a fence post should sit underground. So if you want your picket fence to stand 4 feet tall, you'll need a 6-foot post, and you’ll have to dig a hole that’s 2 feet deep.
Your hole's width should be three times the diameter of your fence post. So if you're using the suggested four-by-four post, you'll need to create a 12-inch hole with your auger or shovel.
As you’re digging your post holes, move slowly to avoid over-exerting yourself or compacting too much soil as you drive down the post digger, especially if you’re using an auger.
Quick tip: We recommend digging all your post holes before moving on to the next two steps. Not only will you be able to triple-check your measurements by doing so, but you will also be able to set your posts relatively quickly and ensure similar cement drying times.
Before you prepare your fence post holes, take a moment to mix your concrete. The process and timing will vary based on the type and brand of concrete you buy. Before starting, put on safety equipment, including gloves, work boots, and eye protection. If you're using quick-set concrete, hold off on mixing until right before you pour.
Pour 3 to 6 inches of loose gravel into the bottom of your hole to encourage underground drainage.
Place the post on top of the gravel and begin steadying its base with 1 inch of soil or gravel. You'll need an extra set of hands during this process.
Use a level to ensure the post is perfectly vertical and pour concrete around the post up to 2 to 3 inches below the soil line.
Brace the post with bricks or cinder blocks on either side to ensure the post remains level as the concrete sets. If you're using quick-set concrete, you can also hold the post in place and should consistently check that it’s level throughout the set time.
Allow the concrete to set according to the bag's instructions.
Cover the concrete with soil and compact the soil with a tamping bar.
If you're adding rails you've cut on your own, follow the steps below.
Measure up from the ground to mark where you’ll place your lower rail. Lower rails typically sit between 7 and 12 inches from the ground.
Measure the same distance from the top of the fence to mark the top rail.
If you’re installing a third rail, mark the space halfway between the two.
Remember that your rails and pickets will face away from your home on the neighbor's side of the fence.
Once you've marked the height for your top and bottom rails, it’s time to break out the drill.
Pre-drill two holes at the end of each rail to avoid splitting the wood.
Attach one rail between posts by placing the end of the rail halfway across the face of the post and drilling two 3-inch decking screws through the rail and into the post. (You can also use a metal face bracket for extra support.)
Grab another rail and align the end of it with the end of the rail you just attached. Drill the rail into the post the same way.
Pickets typically sit about 2.5 inches apart and 1 inch off the ground. If you desire a little more privacy, you can place the pickets closer together. Mark your picket measurements on the rail with a pencil or find an object that works as a consistent spacer.
Attach your pickets one at a time by using a nail gun to add a brad nail to the front of the picket. Once attached, repeat on the bottom rail and middle rail if you added one.
Make sure to use caution when operating a nail gun. Always keep the nail gun pointed away from your body and anyone else, and wear protective equipment, like safety glasses and steel-toed boots, while using the nail gun.
You can attach picket panels by placing them against the post and using bricks or pavers to raise the panels to the correct position. Then, use a level on top of each panel while you screw it into place and secure it to the post using three-inch decking screws.
Depending on the wood used for the fence, you may choose to paint or stain your pickets, rails, and posts for a cohesive look. Wait for a minimum of one to two months after you finish your fence installation to paint or stain it so that the wood has enough time to get acclimated to your area’s environment.
If you leave this step to the pros, painting a wooden fence will cost roughly $3.50 per square foot, but you can also spend about a tenth of this for just materials if you go it alone.
For even more appeal, you can invest in post caps for your new fence. Post caps are entirely decorative objects that sit on top of your fence posts and can further improve the look of your outdoor space. Lots of DIYers even use post caps with LED lights in them to take evening garden parties to the next level.
Using wood adhesive, spread a line of glue around the inside edges of the cap
Firmly place the cap on the top of each post.
Use a level to ensure the cap isn’t crooked.
Let the glue dry before disturbing the fence.
Even when you’re confident that you know how to build a picket fence, it's common to come across a few hiccups. Here are some things to keep in mind so that you don't get fenced in by complications.
If you want to purchase premade picket panels, make sure you get the correct post sizes to match the design.
Avoid installing fence post footings in frozen, wet, or overly dry soil.
If you are building a fence on a slope, before adding your pickets, hold a string line from post to post to check for changes in the slope. Some people choose to adjust the height or angle of their pickets in these areas for a more level look overall.
Building a picket fence on your own will save you about 50% in the long run. The cost to build a wooden fence ranges from $10 to $75 per linear foot, including labor. Given that price, a 100-foot fence can cost between $1,000 and $7,500, but this also depends on the type of wood you choose, customizations, and the cost of labor in your area.
However, keep in mind that you will still need to spend a good deal on lumber and tools, typically between $850 and $2,200. Additionally, if something goes wrong during installation, you could end up paying an average of $20 per linear foot for the cost of fence repairs down the line.
All in all, building a DIY picket fence is a viable option, but you could save yourself money overall by hiring a local fence installer with years of experience.
Fence pickets typically face out (away from your home or the garden that you're enclosing). Both the rails and pickets sit on the outside of a fence so that anyone passing by can see the finished side. Not only does the look increase your curb appeal, but it's also the neighborly thing to do when placing a barrier between two properties, even when you're installing a privacy fence.
Both nails and screws are common in fence construction, including on pickets. Some builders prefer to use nails when connecting the pickets to the rails and screws when connecting the rails to the posts. However, the best option usually depends on the type of wood fencing and the variety of wood you choose.
While cedar and pine are two of the most common wooden fence materials, everything from redwood to bamboo is also available. You can also purchase pressure-treated wood, which better withstands water damage and the threat of pests. The best wood for your fence will come down to your budget, local climate, and preferred look.
