Follow this guide to ensure your move goes swimmingly.
Moving is stressful enough, let alone worrying about safely transporting your aquatic pets.
Learn how to move a fish tank with this handy guide.
Aside from being sensitive to environmental changes, these creatures rely on a delicate balance of proper water temperature, oxygen, and stable water parameters in order to live a happy, sustainable life. While moving your fish will inevitably take them out of their comfort bubble, with the right plan, you’ll get it done with minimal stress.
Moving a fish tank is more complex than packing for a move. It's extremely important to pack it properly and transport the tank safely to avoid damage. Due to the water pressure on the sides of the tank, even the smallest ding or crack can eventually lead to catastrophic breakage.
Aside from breakage concerns, it’s also important to preserve the balance of nitrifying bacteria in the tank’s natural ecosystem. Maintaining this colony of beneficial bacteria in the tank is crucial for keeping water parameters stable when you set up the tank at your new location. The bacteria will quickly die off if the tank is dried out, so it’s best to keep substrate, filters, and other tank elements as wet as possible throughout the moving process.
Before the big move, add housing containers for the fish and other living elements of your tank to your moving supplies checklist. Gather the following:
Clean containers
Storage totes
5-gallon buckets
Battery-powered airstone
Plug-in airstone for travel containers
Battery-operated heater
Fish net
Syphon hose
Remember not to feed your fish for about 24 hours before removing them from the tank. This step helps reduce or eliminate the amount of waste they produce while you’re transporting them, which keeps harmful ammonia levels down in their temporary tank or bowl that isn’t filtered.
If you’re reusing household containers for transporting fish and their tanks, ensure they haven’t previously held chemicals, cleaners, or other substances that could harm your fish. Likewise, don’t wash containers out with soap—rinse them only.
Follow these steps to move a fish tank safely.
On the big day, start by transferring your fish safely to their travel containers. Use a siphon hose to fill your housing containers with water from the tank. Do not use fresh water—the sudden change in pH levels can lead to shock, a.k.a new tank syndrome, which can kill the animals. Add an airstone to each container to keep the water oxygenated while you’re breaking down the tank.
It’s best to pack your aquatic plants in separate containers filled with tank water. Be sure to keep your storage containers in a safe place away from extreme heat or cold drafts.
Once your plants and fish are safe in their travel containers, unplug all the mechanisms in and around the tank. Then, use a siphon hose to drain the tank, reserving tank water in separate travel containers if possible.
Optional: To maintain more of the beneficial bacteria in the tank, keep the substrate in the tank and leave enough water to keep it slightly submerged (around ½ an inch or so of water at the bottom should suffice). Keeping the filters wet with tank water will help keep some of the bacteria alive, but this is the best way to keep the tank fully cycled. This step might make the tank significantly heavier, so you should enlist the help of a friend or hire a moving company to transport it safely.
For jumpy fish, use a loose cover with a gap to allow air to get through. Tape the cover in place if needed, but do not seal the container or close the lid completely, as the fish will need oxygen during the trip.
Next, you’ll be packing the filters. Again, you want to keep these as wet as you can with tank water. Here’s how to safely pack these common types of filters.
If you have a canister filter, unplug it, disconnect the hose, and keep all of the water in it—do not allow any of the water to drain out. Store it securely upright in a separate container so it doesn’t spill or tip over during the move.
If you have a HOB (hang-on-back) filter, disconnect the intake tube, lift it out of the tank, and keep as much of the tank water in it as possible. Store it securely in a separate container so it stays upright during the move.
Also known as corner filters or internal filters, box filters hang on the inner rim of the tank. Gently lift these out of the tank and keep them upright and submerged in tank water. Avoid changing filter media until your tank is stable at your new home.
Sponge filters should be moved in a small container, fully submerged in tank water. If you are cleaning the sponges beforehand, remember to always wash them in a tub of tank water. Do not wash them in regular tap water, as this will kill off beneficial bacteria.
Once everything else is packed, cushion and secure your tank to prevent damage during transit. Line the bottom and sides of a large box with foam board insulation for tank placement. Make sure to find the right moving box large enough to fit the tank and surrounding padding, but not so big that it allows the tank to shift during transit. If there is any space, fill it up with towels, bubble wrap, or packing paper. Do not place hard or heavy items within the tank, as these can rattle around and break the glass.
Next, wrap your hardscape, heaters, lights, and decorative elements in bubble wrap, towels, or packing paper. Again, do not leave rocks and heavy decorative items in the tank—pack them separately.
Carefully pack your boxes for moving and use a marker to indicate which side is up. During transport, refrain from stacking boxes on top of the fish tank to prevent breakage.
Once you’re on your way to the new home, secure your fish containers so they stay put during transit. Ideally, they should go in the car with you to prevent spills and other accidents. If it’s extremely hot or cold, be sure they’re in a temperature-controlled location.
After you’ve arrived at your destination, place your fish in their travel containers in a safe location, away from extreme heat, drafts, and foot traffic.
Next, carefully open up the box containing the tank, remove any padding, and gently lift it from the box. Inspect the tank for any cracks, chipping, or other signs of damage. If all is well, set it up in its new location and prepare to fill it back up.
If you were able to transport some of the tank water, add this back to your tank. For aquasoil or similar organic substrates, pour the water over a paper plate to disperse it and minimize the disturbance of the soil particles. Fill the tank up about halfway, add plants and decorative elements, then fill the rest with dechlorinated water.
Next, set up your filters, heaters, and lights. Plug everything back in and test it out, inspecting it for damage.
Once your tank is set up and ready to go, gently add your animals. Do this slowly to minimize stress. Make sure your tank’s temperature is similar to the water temperature in the containers.
Test your tank for ammonia and nitrate spikes during the first week of the move. If you encounter any, do small daily (~10%) water changes—never change more than 25%-30% of the water at a time.
Also, observe your fish closely for the first week to look for signs of diseases such as ich (ichthyophthirius multifiliis), which can be caused by stress. To check for ich, look for small white spots resembling salt grains on the body, odd behaviors such as hiding, and loss of appetite.
Even if you’re only moving your fish tank to the next room, it’s important to follow certain precautions to ensure the safety of your little swimmers, live plants, and the tank itself. These steps make for a risk-free, smooth move.
Follow the same guidelines as step one above to keep your fish and plants safe in their temporary homes until the tank is in its new spot and ready for its residents.
Once the coast is clear, unplug the tank and any components around it. Since you’re moving the tank a short distance, you can keep the substrate in the tank and leave enough water to keep it slightly submerged to keep some of the bacteria alive. As noted above, this option will make the tank much heavier to move, but help from a few other people should make it more manageable.
Use blankets, bubble wrap, or foam board insulation to wrap the lid, sides, and bottom of the tank to protect it while in transport. Find a piece of cardboard longer than the bottom of the tank to put underneath it, then fold the excess pieces over the sides of the tank and secure with duct tape.
With a pair of moving straps or the help of a few friends, lift the fish tank and slowly move it into its new space, carefully removing the wrapping before putting it in its final destination.
Once the tank is in its rightful place, plug it and any components back in, including heaters and filters, then refill it. Once live plants and other decorative elements are set up, slowly put your fish back in the tank with enough care that they can adjust to their permanent home.
Follow these tips to keep your fish happy and healthy during and after moving.
Plan ahead and give yourself ample time to execute the move.
Dedicate exclusive time to moving your tanks—to minimize stress, your fish tanks should be the last thing you pack and the first thing you unpack at your destination.
Perform partial water changes in the weeks leading up to the move to ensure good water quality.
Add a bottled bacteria starter to the tank to help replenish the bacteria colony after the move.
Moving a fish tank can be stressful, both on your mind and on your back. If you’re uncertain about your ability to move your tank safely, consider hiring a local moving service to do the heavy lifting. The cost to hire movers ranges from $920 to $2,530 for local movers and $2,700 to $10,000 for long-distance moves, including services for moving your entire home, not just your fishy friends.
Professional movers can use specialized equipment such as padding, straps, and crates to ensure safe transportation. Note that many will have different policies regarding live animals, so be sure to explain what you’re moving when you get your initial estimate.
Never attempt to move a partially-filled tank, especially with the fish still in it. Even a minor alteration or adjustment in your movement can cause the water to move, disrupting the balance and potentially causing you to drop the tank or strain your back to prevent it from falling. However, you should maintain enough water on the bottom to keep the substrate slightly submerged during transit.
Yes, it’s possible, but it’s important to be extremely careful, and always remove rocks and heavier hardscape items. Drain all the water from the tank, leaving just enough to keep the gravel slightly submerged to keep your bacteria alive. Then, grab a helper or two and carefully lift the tank from either side, supporting the bottom and keeping it level. If the tank is especially heavy, consider slipping plywood underneath to minimize pressure on the glass. Be sure to pack it so it stays level and doesn’t shift during transit.
Cross-country moves are tricky and risky for your fish, so it’s often best to move the fish separately or rehome them. If you’re attached to your animals and determined to bring them, find a friend to house them and ship them to you once the new tank is ready. You can also contact your local fish store and ask if they offer temporary housing and shipping services until you get settled. If you’re moving to another country, it’s often best to sell the tank and fish, or find a good home locally.
