What You Need to Know About Earthquake Gas Shut-Off Valve Installation
When an earthquake leaves you shaken, you’ll be glad you have one of these
- Pipe wrench
- Crescent wrench
- Open-ended wrench
- Screwdriver
- Level
- Earthquake gas shut-off valve
- Pipe nipples
- Pipe fittings
- Joint compound
- Stabilizer bracket
Earthquake gas shut-off valve installation is a simple solution to a dangerous problem. These safety devices automatically shut off the gas to your home when an earthquake happens. Without one, earthquakes could damage your gas line, causing hazardous leaks, fires, explosions, and serious injury. They’re a common addition when planning an earthquake retrofit.
Before we start, note that this is an incredibly complex and potentially dangerous job. People who don’t have years of experience in plumbing and gas valve installation should not attempt this DIY. Incorrect installation could lead to fires or an explosion in your home.
Prepping for Earthquake Gas Shut-Off Valve Installation
In some cases, earthquake gas shut-off valve installation must be done by a qualified natural gas plumber. Depending on where you live, you might also need to submit a plan to get a plumbing permit for the work. Check with your local gas company or building authority to find out the rules in your area.
You’ll also want to ensure the work is done according to code, whether that’s local codes, the Uniform Plumbing Code, or the National Fuel Gas Code. If the earthquake shut-off valve is installed incorrectly, it could fail to work properly in an emergency or simply block off your gas supply when you least expect it (not as dangerous, but still not a fun situation). You might want to hire this one out if you don’t have thousands of pages of building codes memorized and extensive plumbing and gas valve experience.
If you have years of plumbing and gas valve experience and decide to take this one on yourself, follow along. Otherwise, feel free to read on and get a good understanding of how the pros will handle this job once they arrive.
Buying the Right Supplies
Avoid extra trips to the hardware store later by making sure you have the right size shut-off valve and fittings for your gas pipes before you begin. Earthquake gas shut-off valves are available for a wide range of pipe diameters, but household installations commonly use 3/4-inch or 1-inch valves. Some manufacturers also sell the shut-off valve and bracket assembly together.
All appliances and pilot light valves must be turned off before the installation begins to prevent a fire risk.
If there’s ever a time to leave a project to a pro, this is it. This is not an easy task, and the results could be extremely dangerous if the earthquake gas shut-off valve is installed incorrectly. Stay safe and hire a natural gas plumber to handle this project.
How to Install an Earthquake Shut-Off Valve
With all the supplies and tools ready, the following seven steps are how a licensed gas plumber installs a gas shut-off valve for safety during an earthquake.
Shut Off the Gas
Photo: Milan / Adobe StockTurn off the gas to the house on the supplier side (the pipe that comes in from the street) by using a wrench to turn the manual inlet valve to the “off” position.
Detach the Meter
Next, loosen the meter swivel. Using a pipe wrench, remove the union from the house side of the meter, taking care not to ruin the gasket. Detach the union and tee from the pipe nipple and remove it from the line that goes into the building. Measure the length of the pipe nipple. You’ll need two new, shorter ones for each end of the earthquake shut-off valve.
Are all these terms and parts confusing to you? If so, it’s time to put down the wrench and call a pro.
Insert the Pipe on the Valve Ends
Choose pipe nipples for either side of the earthquake shut-off valve so that the combination equals the length of the pipe nipple you just removed. Using joint compound (don’t use plumber’s tape), attach the pipe nipples to each end. Make absolutely sure you do not get any compound inside the earthquake shut-off valve—otherwise, it won’t work correctly.
Attach the Valve
Attach the valve to the pipe leading into the house using a crescent or open-ended wrench, not a pipe wrench. (If you use a pipe wrench, you risk damaging the valve, not to mention voiding the warranty.)
When the valve is in position, make sure you can read the indicator. Also, check to make sure the flow indicators are pointing in the correct direction. Otherwise, the valve won’t work.
Reconnect the Pipe to the Meter
Photo: New Africa / Adobe StockTighten all fittings as you reconnect the union to the gas meter, keeping the valve secure and level. Don’t forget that gasket.
Brace the Valve Against the House
You’ll need to brace the valve against the house for two reasons. First, motion-activated earthquake gas shut-off valves kick into operation when shaking is detected. This is usually for earthquakes above 5.2 on the Richter scale. Attaching it to the house means it’ll work when an earthquake hits.
Second, you’ll want to avoid what’s called “nuisance trips”—accidentally setting off the shut-off valve. (You don’t want to be halfway through whipping up dinner when a thump or a bump shuts the gas off.)
The earthquake shut-off valve manufacturer may recommend a specific bracket, or you can use any suitable stabilizer bracket. Place the bracket between the meter and the valve, as close to the valve as you can (within about 6 inches), and attach it to the home. Drill pilot holes into studs or use anchors if no studs are available.
Position the bracket with 3/8-inch screws. Attach a U-bolt around the pipe, near the valve, using washers between the nuts and the bracket, and hand-tighten. Check the valve for level, tightening the bracket as you go.
Check for Leaks
Spray a soapy solution on all connections, fittings, and the valve to check for leaks. If you see bubbles, that means air is coming through. Turn off the gas, go back and tighten your connections, and check again.
If you can’t fix the leak on your own, make sure your gas is still shut off and call a pro immediately to resolve the situation.
Turn the Gas Back On
Make sure the valve is open. Valve models vary, but there’s likely an indicator—red for closed, green for open—that lets you know the status.
With the entire unit reattached, level, and secure, and the valve open, turn the gas back on at the supplier-side manual valve. Open it slowly so that you don’t damage the regulator. Once it’s good to go, you can relight the pilots and reconnect the appliances.
DIY vs. Hiring a Pro
Earthquakes and gas lines are a fiery combo. Hiring a local natural gas plumber means your earthquake gas shut-off valve installation will meet code, your warranty will be intact, and your home will have a much lower risk of a gas leak. The consequences could be serious if you make an error DIYing earthquake gas shut-off valve installation. In this case, it’s best to go with a pro.
Frequently Asked Questions
Earthquake gas shut-off valves, or seismic gas shut-off valves, are safety devices that attach to your natural gas line. When an earthquake hits, the valve automatically turns off the flow of gas. Earthquake gas shut-off valves can prevent gas leaks, which are especially dangerous after a quake due to the risk of fire and explosion.
Almost all new buildings in California need an earthquake shut-off valve. The requirements for an earthquake gas shut-off valve (and who can install it) depend on where you live. For example, according to the Los Angeles Municipal Code, you’re required to hire a licensed contractor to install one whenever you build, sell, or renovate a home. Check with your local building department for your city’s laws on installing, permitting, and inspecting earthquake shut-off valves.
How much it will cost to install an earthquake shut-off valve depends on who’s doing the installation. The price of the earthquake shut-off valve itself can cost between $250 and $750, and you’ll pay between $150 and $200 for labor if you hire a licensed plumbing contractor. If you install the valve yourself, you’ll save on labor, but you might need to spend $50 to $300 on the right tools for the job (and it’s a complex job that we don’t recommend DIYing).
