This DIY project could be a downpour-tunity to save some cash
First, determine the gutter size you need. They are available in four, five, and six-inch sizes. Remember that the larger the gutter, the greater its capacity to hold and redirect water. The sections are typically pre-cut in eight or ten-foot lengths and are priced according to linear feet. For most homes, a gutter length of 150 to 200 feet is necessary. To ensure you purchase an adequate amount, measure your home's roof line and height or measure the length of your current gutter system.
Additionally, make sure you have the appropriate tools for the type of gutters you purchase and the level of effort you are willing to invest. Aluminum or copper gutters can be cut using tin snips, aviation snips, hacksaws, or jigsaws equipped with a metal-cutting blade. While you might already own a pair of tin snips, keep in mind that using them will require the most energy and labor, exerting pressure and strain on your fingers, wrists, and hands.
On the other hand, if you have steel or zinc gutters, you will need a more robust cutting tool. Regardless of the material, all gutters can be cut quickly and effortlessly using a power saw.
Due to the use of sharp metal and blades during the gutter installation process, it is crucial to prioritize your safety by wearing appropriate protective gear. We highly recommend wearing safety goggles and cut-resistant gloves to shield your eyes and hands from any potential harm. Additionally, it is important to wear heavy boots to protect your feet in case any small metal shards fall to the ground—stepping on them can cause injury.
Wearing a mask is also essential, and working in a well-ventilated area is highly advised. Dust can accumulate rapidly during the gutter-cutting process, and inhaling it can be harmful. Ensuring proper ventilation in your workspace will assist in maintaining clean and breathable air. Prioritizing your safety by wearing the recommended safety gear and working in a well-prepared environment will contribute to a successful and injury-free gutter installation.
Place your gutter on a stable, flat service such as a work bench (or power saw table if you’re using that). If you’re employing a hacksaw, clamp the gutter onto two sawhorses.
Next, you’ll want to mark where the gutter needs to be cut. You should measure and make a pencil mark where the gutter will be cut, and trace the cut mark around to the back of the gutter so you know where to cut on either side. Measure a second time to be sure you have it marked correctly. Cut the gutter along the traced line, working slowly to keep your cut as clean and straight as possible.
If you’re using a jigsaw, secure the gutter with clamps. Set the saw for zero oscillation so the blade cuts up and down rather than in an elliptical pattern. Proceed to cut along the line or mark you drew.
Once your cut is complete, you’ll want to smooth out any rough spots. This is a very important step if you’re using tin snips, which leave a jagged edge as they require a higher number of cuts. Filing down rough edges will prevent injury when it comes time to attach the end caps, seal any joints, or handle the gutters during the installation process.
With aluminum, copper, or steel gutters, you can file down the rough edges using a metal file until it is as smooth as possible without sacrificing your measurement.
Finish cutting your gutters until you have the necessary pieces for installation. Because there is no edge to start from with the downspout, you should mark a cutting line along all four sides using a combination square and then cut with a hacksaw or snips. With snips, you’ll need to punch through where you want to start the cut—alternately, you could drill a small hole through the metal to start the cut.
The work of cutting metal is no small feat and is a very detailed, dangerous job involving heavy, cumbersome materials. While you’ll save some money on labor, it might make the most sense to hire a gutter installation pro near you to ensure they are cut and installed correctly to prevent any long-term issues. The cost to replace gutters is approximately $4 to $30 per linear foot, depending on the materials used, such as basic aluminum or high-end copper.
Choose a tool that suits the type of gutters you have. Aluminum or copper gutters can be cut easily with tin snips, aviation snips, hacksaws, or jigsaws (provided they have a metal-cutting blade). Tin snips are used the most often, but they also require the most physical effort. With steel or zinc gutters, you’ll want a stronger tool like a power saw.
The different types of gutter hangers that must be installed with gutter systems also have varying levels of difficulty for installation. Many DIY-ers prefer to use vinyl gutters, which are lightweight, inexpensive, and designed for easy installation. They come in many different colors to match your siding and home, or you can paint them with exterior paint. The downside to vinyl gutters is that they are not as durable as stronger metal ones.
These two gutter material options are strong choices for your home, but there are a few key differences. Galvanized steel gutters are less expensive than aluminum gutters (usually $4 to $8 per linear foot) and are very durable—often proving sturdy even against falling tree branches. Galvanized steel, however, is prone to rust, while aluminum never rusts. If you need a more durable option, consider getting quotes for copper gutters cost or faux copper gutters cost.
Box gutters are concealed gutters that are fixed within a building's structure instead of being attached to the roofing perimeter. They work best with flat or architectural roofs. The cost for box gutters ranges from $8 to $25 per linear foot. Another type of gutter, called a built-in gutter, is designed to blend in with the roofline using an enclosed design. This option costs $15 to $25 per linear foot.
If you're looking for a way to avoid gutter replacement costs, there are several gutter alternatives that provide efficient, eco-friendly water redirection. At $20 to $100 each, rain chains transport water from the roof to a drain or cistern. Drip edges, drip paths, French gutters, grading, and dispersal systems are all options that can be used either in place of or in conjunction with traditional gutters in some environments.
