On average, electrical panel replacement costs $1,313, depending on the panel type. Most spend between $519 and $2,141.
The cost to replace an electrical panel is $1,313 on average, though it can range between $519 and $2,141 depending on the breaker type and complexity of the project. Boxes and electrical panels older than 25 to 40 years can be a fire hazard, and having an older electrical system may affect your insurance costs because they are deemed less safe. Learn about the cost to replace a breaker box, when to hire an electrician, and all electrical panel replacement cost factors, in this guide.
The cost to replace an electrical panel varies by several factors, including the panel or box type, necessary amperage, accessibility concerns, and more.
The term “electrical panel” refers to several components within your home’s electrical system beyond the panel itself, each of which has its own replacement pricing.
| Type of Electrical Panel | Cost Range |
|---|---|
| Main Breaker | $500–$2,000 |
| Fuse Box | $1,500–$2,000 |
| Main Lug Panels | $400–$1,750 |
| Subpanel | $400–$2,000 |
| Circuit Breaker Switch Replacement | $100–$200 |
| Electric Meter Box Replacement | $100–$650 |
The main breaker controls the power to connected circuit breakers and circuits. The price to install a new main breaker box is $500 to $2,000, though the exact cost depends on the amperage of the unit and the number of affiliated circuits.
Replacing a fuse box with a circuit breaker box costs $1,500 to $2,000, though this price increases if the wiring requires a complete overhaul. Replacing a pre-existing fuse box with another fuse box of a similar type costs $200 to $2,000.
Main lug panels are a type of subpanel, also called a downstream panel or secondary panel. Main lug panels cost $400 to $1,750 to install, depending on the amperage and circuit capacity.
If your main breaker box is full, add a subpanel to increase the number of available circuits. The cost to install a subpanel is $400 to $2,000, depending on the amperage and the number of integrated circuits.
Replacing a circuit breaker switch costs between $100 and $200, including parts and labor. Standard 15- to 20-amp circuit breaker switches cost $5 to $15 each, and larger 20-amp switches cost $10 to $20 each. If you are sticking with your old fuse box over a circuit breaker box, purchasing a set of three fuses costs $5 to $10.
Installing a new electric meter costs $100 to $650, including parts and labor. As the name suggests, a meter box contains the meter that measures how much electricity you are using.
Let’s review the cost ranges for each of the common home amperages. These costs are for parts only.
| Amperage Amount | Cost Per Box |
|---|---|
| 100 Amps | $100–$200 |
| 150 Amps | $150–$250 |
| 200 Amps | $250–$350 |
| 400 Amps | $500 |
When it comes to circuit breakers, you choose from three main types, each with unique cost ranges.
| Type of Circuit Breaker | Cost Per Unit | What to Know |
|---|---|---|
| Standard Circuit Breaker | $10 | Found in most single-family homes. |
| GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) | $30–$100 | Specialized breakers prevent electric shocks if it contacts water. |
| AFCI (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter) | $30–$100 | Resist loose connections in the wiring. Required by some municipalities. |
Electrical panels and boxes are found all over the home but must adhere to location rules and guidelines. Moving the electrical panel outside requires plenty of wiring and costs $1,500 to $2,500, allowing increased access to power the whole system down in the case of an emergency.
Replacing an electrical panel and all its associated components takes at least 20 hours of work by a local electrician, with some jobs ballooning up to 30 hours or more. Professional electricians charge $50 to $150 per hour, varying the total labor cost from $1,000 to $4,500.
Panel replacement requires a permit from a local regulatory agency. Electrical permits cost between $50 to $300, and the cost of the post-job inspection is usually covered by pulling the permit.
Beyond parts, materials, and labor, some homeowners have additional costs with this project. These costs are for non-mandatory projects typically recommended by professional electricians when they upgrade electrical panels.
| Add-On Services | Cost Range |
|---|---|
| Relocation of panel | $1,500–$4,000 |
| Replace drywall | $1.50–$3 per square foot |
| Trenching | $600–$2,100 |
| Adding an outlet | $125–$200 each |
| Replacing faulty wiring | $600–$4,500 |
Move electric panel: $1,500–$4,000
Installing new drywall: $1.50 to $3 per square foot
Adding outlet: $125–$200
Replacing faulty wiring: $600 to $4,500
Working with electricity is extremely dangerous and you should hire a local electrician to avoid injury and ensure your new electrical panel is up to code.
In addition, professional electricians are insured in case of any accidents that may occur on the job and may offer warranties on their work or the components they install—just ask during the hiring process.
Stick to pros for this job, though some non-electrical steps are fine for handy homeowners. For example, if your electrician tears out some drywall, you can install a new sheet on your own.
Looking to save a few bucks when replacing an electric panel and related components? Here are some tips for doing just that.
Look for rebates: Upgrading your electrical panel to a more energy-efficient model may come with local, state, and federal rebates, tax credits, or incentives. For example, EnergyStar offers an electric panel upgrade tax credit from January 1, 2023, through December 31, 2032.
Bundle tasks: Consider adding outlets, replacing the meter box, and wiring new additions while replacing the panel.
Pro purchases supplies: Pros likely have a robust contact list to source parts and materials for less than a local hardware store.
Prepare the area: Keep the pro’s hourly rate down by preparing the area ahead of time. Clear out any potential obstacles and clean the space.
DIY when possible: It is not safe for you to replace the panel, but you can save money by handling associated tasks, such as laying drywall and painting the walls.
Choose budget parts: Reduce your total cost by selecting standard components instead of high-end upgrades.
There are many reasons that you may need to replace or update your circuit breaker box. If your electrical panel is old, the last thing you need to worry about is putting out an electrical fire. Here’s when you should replace your electrical panel:
You want to add more outlets or large appliances to your home.
You want to move your electrical panel to a better or safer location.
Your circuit breaker box or fuse box is more than 25 years old or you simply want to update it.
You are experiencing frequent power surges and/or tripped breakers.
Your electrical power supply is not strong enough to handle all of your appliances.
The lights in your home constantly or sporadically flicker and you don’t know the cause.
Your energy costs are increasing and you’ve made no other changes (dated fuse boxes or breakers are less efficient).
The panel is rusted shut, broken, or making odd and off-putting noises.
The panel is hot when you touch it or, even worse, emits smoke during use.
You’re making updates before selling your home.
While a professional electrician can recommend the best electrical panel size for your home, you can use this helpful guide to estimate it based on your home’s consumption.
| Electrical Panel Size in Amps | Home Usage |
|---|---|
| Less than 100 amps | Smaller homes without major electrical systems |
| 150 amps | Smaller homes with several appliances or power strips running at the same time |
| 200 amps | Homes built since 2015; Homes larger than 1,800 square feet; Homes with additions or garages |
| 300 amps | Large homes or homes with home businesses that require commercial-grade electrical equipment |
| More than 400 amps | Very large homes with multiple additions and extreme levels of energy consumption |
In addition, if you’re considering adding a whole-house generator, you’ll want to make sure that you upgrade your amperage to meet the generator’s wattage demands.
Home is the most important place on earth, which is why Angi has helped more than 150 million homeowners transform their houses into homes they adore. To help homeowners with their next project, Angi provides readers with the most accurate cost data and upholds strict editorial standards. We’ve surveyed over 10,000 real Angi customers about their project costs to develop the pricing data you see, so you can make the best decisions for you and your home. We pair this data with research from reputable sources, including the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, academic journals, market studies, and interviews with industry experts—all to ensure our prices reflect real-world projects.
Want to help us improve our cost data? Send us a recent project quote to costquotes@angi.com. Quotes and personal information will not be shared publicly.
Replacing the panel itself takes four to eight hours of work by a professional. However, if associated wiring and related components also require replacement, the labor time increases to 20 to 30 hours. Your electrician can speed up the process by bringing in a team of pros to handle ancillary tasks.
It starts with sourcing parts and materials and contacting the utility company to completely shut down the power supply. Next, the pro prepares the board for replacement by carefully removing any associated wires and inspecting the system for damage. The panel is removed and disposed of safely before the new panel is affixed to the wall. Finally, the wiring is updated to reflect the new panel.
You're in luck, because replacing a breaker panel is not a regular occurrence that most homeowners have to worry about. Electrical breaker panels last 25 to 40 years, assuming you properly maintain your system and conduct annual inspections. Factors like load demand and exposure to the elements slightly reduce a breaker panel’s lifespan.
There are many signs it is time to replace an electrical panel, starting with flickering lights. Other tell-tale signals include overheating appliances, light fixtures that cause an electric shock, hissing or crackling from the breaker box, burned or blackened spots near the breaker box, and breakers that trip whenever activating power-hungry appliances like microwaves.
