How to Change an Irrigation Valve and Renew Your Sprinkler System

Lawn looking less than lush? Change the irrigation valve.

A sprinkler system watering the lawn on a house’s front yard
Photo: ftwitty / E+ / Getty Images
A sprinkler system watering the lawn on a house’s front yard
Photo: ftwitty / E+ / Getty Images
SKILL LEVEL
Intermediate
COMPLETION TIME
1 hour
COST
$15–$150
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What you'll need:
TOOLS
  • Pipe cutters
  • PVC glue
  • Teflon tape
  • Pliers
  • PVC male pipe adaptors
SUPPLIES
  • New irrigation valve

Owning an irrigation system comes with a new set of responsibilities. Understanding common repairs, including how to change your irrigation valve, keeps your yard looking healthy and prolongs the life of your sprinkler system.

Here’s how to diagnose if your irrigation valve has an issue and how to swap out the valve yourself. Don’t hesitate to hire a sprinkler repair professional if you need assistance with this task.

  1. Locate the Different Valves

    Before you can change an irrigation valve, it’s important to understand which specific valve you’ll be changing. An irrigation valve uses a timer to release and distribute water from the water source to the irrigation lines for even, consistent watering.

    There are two main valves: a master valve, where water enters the irrigation system from a source, such as an outdoor spigot, and an irrigation valve that controls water flow to each node or irrigation line. The irrigation valve, not the master, is what you’ll want to change for this project.

  2. Shut Off the Water

    Before you disconnect anything in the sprinkler system, turn off the water supply connected to the system. This ensures you won’t be drenched when you finish the project.

  3. Remove Wiring

    Sprinkler valve wiring illustrated, including cable connectors, a common wire, and wire zones

    Pro tip: Before disconnecting the wiring, take a picture of the system. That way, you can refer to the photos for reassembly.

    Remove the wire caps and disconnect the wires connected to the irrigation valve. This could be anywhere between two to four wires connecting it to the system. 

  4. Remove the Old Valve

    You’ll need to cut the pipes connecting it to the system to remove the entire irrigation valve. Cut off the valve just after the PVC adapters are connected to the system. You’ll still be able to connect the new valve with new pipes and adapters.

  5. Prep the New Valve

    Before installing the new valve, connect it to adapters (similar to the ones you just cut). Install the “male” PVC adapters to the valve using Teflon tape to ensure a snug fit.

  6. Replace the Old Valve

    Lower the new valve into the system, attaching it on both sides using PVC glue. Swipe the glue along the insides of the adapters attached to the new valve, then attach them to the irrigation system pipes.

    Once you apply the glue, take care to work quickly; it sets fast!

  7. Reconnect the Valve

    With the new valve in place, it’s time to reconnect the wiring. Refer to the photos you took before disassembling the valve and copy the connections to ensure everything is in the right spot.

  8. Test It

    With the new valve installed, it’s time to check your handy work. Turn the water back on slowly to test the system and check for leaks.

    If the sprinkler leaks even when the timer is off or releases water at a low pressure after changing the irrigation valve, it could be an issue with the solenoid valve, an electronic part of the irrigation valve. Check your sprinkler make and model to order a replacement solenoid valve, then shut off the water supply and master valve before replacing the solenoid.

  9. Replace the Solenoid (Optional)

    To replace a solenoid, you’ll need to detach the wire connectors leading to the solenoid and turn the valve counterclockwise to remove it from the sprinkler valve. Then, insert the replacement solenoid and reconnect the wires, finishing it off with wire connectors. Because wiring sprinkler valves can pose shock risks, it’s best to leave this repair to the pros.

DIY vs. Hiring a Pro

A man repairing an irrigation valve
Photo: Susan Vineyard / iStock / Getty Images Plus / Getty Images

This project involves dealing with water lines and electrical wires. If you wire the valves incorrectly or don’t get the new valves on snugly enough, you could risk frying your sprinklers, shocking yourself, or flooding your lawn. Instead, a local sprinkler repair pro can do the work safely and minimize costly damages to your irrigation system.

Frequently Asked Questions

An irrigation valve can cost between $15 and $150, and a sprinkler repair professional will charge between $50 and $100 an hour for labor. If you need to replace a solenoid valve, expect to spend $10 to $20, plus the cost of any additional wiring and connectors, about $1 to $10.

To repair a faulty irrigation valve, turn off the water and disassemble the valve. Check for a clog, which is one of several common sprinkler issues you can troubleshoot yourself. Clear out the clog. If there’s no damage left behind, this may solve any issues. However, if there’s damage, you’ll need to replace the valve.

After clearing the clog, reassemble the valve and turn on the water, making sure the master valve is fully open. Simply turning up the valve to release higher pressure into the system could be the culprit for the low water pressure.

With proper care, the irrigation should last as long as the system, between 10 to 15 years. However, this requires maintenance and upkeep of the system, including winterizing the components each year, cleaning sprinkler heads and filters, and keeping an eye out for cracked or broken pipes. Make it a point to walk your property every few weeks to ensure everything looks good.

You may have a broken solenoid valve if the irrigation valve isn’t opening on schedule or the valve doesn’t open at all. A broken solenoid valve can be replaced without replacing the entire irrigation valve. Instead, you simply purchase a new solenoid valve and install it into the existing irrigation valve. 

Drip irrigations can be anywhere between four to 12 inches deep. In four-season climates, it’s likely that the system is buried under the frost line. The frost line is where the solid freezes in the winter. If your pipe is buried above the freeze line, it’ll freeze and thaw with the weather, making it more likely to crack and break.

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